Author: CronotempVs Collectors

Chopard L.U.C. XP IL Sarto Kiton

Elegance is a matter of simplicity

With the L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton timepiece, Chopard is introducing its first partnership with the Kiton Ateliers, masters of Italian tailoring. This strictly limited edition of 100 ultra-thin watches in beadblasted DLC-coated steel is soberly attired with a houndstooth-patterned. A slate-coloured cashmere strap lined with red alligator leather. Mechanical excellence is guaranteed by the L.U.C 96.53-L mechanical movement with automatic winding. Equipped with a tungsten micro-rotor and Chopard Twin technology ensuring a power reserve lasting more than two days. The best of Swiss Haute Horlogerie and Italian sprezzatura.

Allure

First and foremost, the L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton is perfectly proportioned thanks to a 40 mm diameter case that is a mere 7.2 mm thick. This ultra-thin look enables genuine wearer comfort and imposes an aura of simplicity, two imperatives that sum up the philosophy of the L.U.C collection and contribute to its elegance, thereby echoing Ciro Paone’s motto: “Elegance must be associated with simplicity”.

The allure of this timepiece also lies in its chromatic uniformity: a beautiful black silhouette, subtly carved out from the slate grey shades of the beadblasted DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon) steel case, dial and strap.

Achieved by galvanic treatment and lacquered finishes, the Kiton Ateliers’ signature is evident at first glance on the brass dial. Thanks to the Neapolitan tailor’s houndstooth motif that has been a firm favourite since it purchased at auction the wardrobe of King Edward VIII of England, who was hailed, if not for his ephemeral reign, at least for his elegance as an acknowledged dandy.

Against this dark background, the golden Arabic numerals matching the hour-markers and fusée-type Dauphine hands make the hours and minutes perfectly legible. The quarter-hour indications and the Kiton logo at 6 o’clock add a subtle red touch that is picked up in the topstitching on the strap. Testimony to the same artisanal approach, the latter is handmade, free of any chemical treatment and comes in a soft blend of Mongolian cashmere, wool and flannel with a slight touch of elastane, ensuring enhanced wearer comfort. This opulent wristband is lined with red alligator leather as is a second black alligator leather strap also sold with the model.

Accuracy

Because all the timepieces produced in Chopard Manufacture’s watchmaking workshops are amply matched by mechanical perfection. The L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton incorporates an in-house movement, the L.U.C 96.53-L calibre. Ultra-thin at just 3.3 mm thick, this is an evolution of Chopard Manufacture’s first L.U.C 96.01-L movement. Synonymous with watchmaking excellence and applied in a multitude of new interpretations since it was first presented in 1996.

Like its illustrious ancestor, and thanks to Chopard Twin technology, the mechanical movement L.U.C 96.53-L with automatic winding is equipped with twin barrels ensuring a 58-hour power reserve. It is powered by a micro-rotor made of tungsten, a high-density alloy facilitating optimal winding. Featuring movement bridges finely decorated with “Côtes de Genève”, the L.U.C XP Il Sarto Kiton watch is equally beautiful inside and out. Which is precisely why its precious calibre is visible through a transparent case-back.

 

L.U.C: a collection for gentlemen

The L.U.C. collection embodies the perfect blend of virility and sensitivity, humility and charisma that define the modern-day gentleman. It epitomises an ideal alliance between aesthetics and mechanics, celebrated by those who make their existence a quest for fine craftsmanship and regard inward and outward beauty as an art of living. It is for them that Chopard performs all stages of production in its Geneva and Fleurier workshops: from movement design to quality control through product design, case stamping and machining, the manufacture of movement components, as well as their hand decoration, surface treatment, polishing, assembly and adjustment.

Chopard L.U.C XP IL Sarto Kiton

PVP 10.800 Euros

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Greubel Forsey Balancier S

The exclusive union of sport and chronometry

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey unveil a new timepiece showcasing a large, high precision and inclined balance wheel within a 100 metres water resistant titanium case tailored for the most active lifestyle. The two inventor watchmakers took up the challenge of fully – and visibly – combining sport and chronometry! The unique ovoid case with ergonomic profile and integrated lugs, provides optimal protection for the movement. With this new calibre, the “Balancier S”, Greubel Forsey pursues the sporting adventure, pushing the technical limits to combine ergonomics, architecture and precision. A new flagship in aesthetics and performance, innovation and craftsmanship.

An avant-garde case

Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have been creating innovative mechanisms since 2004. Invention and creativity being two fundamental strands woven into the DNA of Greubel Forsey, with this expertise they are continuing to explore new paths of case architecture and its integration with their movement constructions. Late 2019, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey pioneered a new chapter with the GMT Sport – the totally new case architecture with sculptural lines combining ergonomics, robustness and comfort. Today, Greubel Forsey continues this approach, presenting a new interpretation of the unique case displaying its completely new movement. The new Greubel Forsey Balancier S” achieves a slim profile, reinforcing its dynamic new momentum.

The rubber crown and caseband with rubber inserts assure excellent grip and protection of the timepiece. An oval, arched sapphire crystal follows the curvature of the case. A perfect osmosis between the case and the movement is emphasized, technically and visually, by a daring double suspended arched bridge holding an inclined gear train and curved central hour and minute hands. These striking elements integrate and extend over the inclined balance wheel giving the timepiece its powerful identity, but also assuring its outstanding chronometric performance.

A focus on chronometry

The large inclined balance wheel at 7 o’clock stands out. Aiming above all to improve chronometry, it maximises the space offered by the arched case and sapphire crystal, inextricably linking form and function. In their relentless quest for precision and performance, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey have already challenged chronometry, notably by reinventing the tourbillon mechanism with the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, Quadruple Tourbillon and the Double Tourbillon 30°. They chose a new approach here, based on their large balance wheel unveiled in 2016. Entirely developed and made within the Greubel Forsey Atelier, this balance wheel is distinguished by its oversized 12.6mm diameter, ensuring excellent timekeeping performance.

To allow fine timekeeping adjustment of the moment of inertia, the balance wheel rim is fitted with six gold regulating screws, inset so as to limit air friction. In this new hand wound calibre, with several patents pending, the imposing Greubel Forsey balance wheel can be seen in an inclined construction for the very first time. This 30° angle with respect to the horizontal plane of the movement proves to be an outstanding solution for limiting timing errors due to the effects of gravity on the regulating organ (balance wheel, spring and escapement) in stable positions.

A showcase of exceptional craftsmanship

With two coaxial barrels mounted in series, the 308- component movement has a 72-hour chronometric power reserve. The central hours and minutes display, with profiled and openworked polished steel hands, is completed by a small seconds hand on the inclined plane of the escapement at 8 o’clock, accentuating the depth and relief of this new calibre. Following the Greubel Forsey creative spirit, technical and architectural innovation is accomplished with unconditional care and craftsmanship for all the components of the movement – whether these are visible through the sapphire crystal, the transparent caseback or hidden in the mechanical mysteries within. This traditional and irreplaceable artisanal know-how is mastered in the Greubel Forsey Atelier – frosting, polished bevels and countersinks, circular and straight graining highlight even the smallest surfaces.

S for sport

The exceptional chronometry of this Greubel Forsey creation is combined with an unequivocally sporty case. Made of titanium and water resistant to 100 metres, its powerful case shape is distinguished by its lightness and comfort on the wrist. Its robustness protects the movement, in particular its large balance wheel, tested in the Greubel Forsey EWT Laboratory. Assuring its reliability and chronometric performance at all times. The flexible and resistant rubber strap reinforces the sporty dimension, with all the comfort of a titanium folding clasp.

With the “Balancier S”, Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey take another step in their exploration of new technical and aesthetic horizons. Rarely has a timepiece with sport-orientated characteristics displayed such chronometric performance so visibly. Rarely has a watch with a sporting vocation presented such a degree of craftsmanship in movement and case. An exclusive alliance between creativity and performance, the Art of Invention, signed Greubel Forsey.

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Urwerk UR-220 Falcon Project

URWERK presents UR-220, codenamed “The Falcon Project”

Just a few months after launching its UR-210 “final edition” model, the independent watchmaker, URWERK, has put into orbit a newcomer in its UR-Satellite collection: the UR-220 “Falcon Project”.

With its manually wound movement and control board on its back, the new UR-220 goes back to URWERK’s earlier technologies in a case that is sleeker, more ergonomic and as stunning as ever. One exceptional feature is the return of the oil change indicator in a new guise.

Instrument panel

For a change we’ll start with the back of the watch, which shows how much the 200 series modules have evolved. URWERK’s signature oil change indicator returns after years of absence to show the accumulated engine running time of the watch. This original type of information had for long featured in the UR-110 models. It returns with some well thought out upgrades.

In the UR-220, the oil change indicator takes the shape of a numerical counter calibrated in months, shown on two adjacent rollers. The log of the movement’s running time is started by the owner of the watch who removes a security pin and presses the pusher on the back of the UR-220. From then on, the counter displays the accumulated running time of the watch in months. When it reaches 39 months, it is time to take the watch in for a service and oil change.

URWERK’s watchmakers will set the counter back to zero and replace the pin at the end of the service. “It’s more than a numerical counter making a cold tally of the months,” says Felix Baumgartner, URWERK’s co-founder. “The oil change indicator tells you for how long your watch has actually been working on your wrist, and reflects the energy you have fuelled it with every day. It connects you with your watch.”

Carbon

On the material side, the UR-220 is clad in carbon. This is the first time URWERK has adopted the high-tech transformation of this common element. The result is an extremely tough but featherweight case, composed of 70 ultra-thin layers of high-resistance 150g CTP carbon compressed into a hard resin. The carbon structure of the UR-220 has a pattern all of its own with a finesse and regularity that emphasises the curve of the case.

“I wanted to have the finest possible pattern traced along the length of the UR-220’s case,” explains Martin Frei, URWERK’s other co-founder. “We therefore needed a special kind of carbon in layers that are not only parallel but as thin as possible. The concentric pattern you can see on the surface of the UR-220 is the result of this choice. The carbon layers underscore the curves of the sapphire-crystal glass of this watch. In terms of style and technique this UR-220 is just the way I imagined it.”

Carrousel and switchback

The UR-220 adopts the patented satellite indication of its predecessor, in which the wandering hours are indicated on three rotating cubes. In turn they pick up the minutes pointer as they enter the 120° scale of 60 minutes. At the end of the hour, the minutes pointer leaps back to the start of the scale to be picked up by the next hour. To minimise the inertia of the retrograde minutes, each side of the pointer has been pierced to make it as light as possible.

The only other indication on the dial is that of the power reserve. This is displayed on two up/down gauges, each of 24 hours. When the movement is wound, the right-hand gauge reacts first. As soon as it shows 24 hours of power reserve, the left hand gauge takes over. Splitting the power reserve indication turned out to be a complex task, requiring 83 mechanical parts.

With the UR-220’s strap, URWERK again ventures into new territory. It is the company’s first rubber strap, and therefore has to be something special. The strap is cured, moulded and textured by the Vulcarboné© process which gives it a touch like velvet. Many years of research into nano-textures were needed to create this effect. Then the strap is stitched and finished by hand to ensure supreme comfort, strength and appearance.

No detail can be neglected, especially not the numerals of the UR-220. Martin Frei has designed a new typography. In their livery of URWERK’s radioactive green, their new design makes the hours and minutes even sharper. They find their inspiration in the graphics of contemporary video science-fiction games.

PVP 145.000 Francos Suizos

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Patek Philippe 5303R-001 Minute Repeater

An extravaganza for eyes and ears

Since it made its first pocket watch with a minute repeater (1845), Patek Philippe has established itself as one of the gifted interpreters of the music of time. This remarkable knowhow comes to the fore even in the most extraordinary creations, such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon wristwatch featuring a minute repeater with cathedral gongs or the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with five chiming functions including two patented global debuts. The manufacture also offers the broadest selection of regularly produced minute repeaters, watches with classic or cathedral gongs and models featuring a minute repeater with or without additional complications (perpetual calendar, tourbillon, World Time, chronograph). But never before had Patek Philippe crafted a minute repeater with a striking mechanism that was visible on the dial side.

The Ref. 5303 was unveiled in 2019 in a limited edition of 12 watches as a world debut on the occasion of the “Watch Art Grand Exhibition Singapore 2019”.

Now, a slightly modified version of the Ref. 5303 Minute Repeater Tourbillon has become part of the current Patek Philippe collection. This new complication for enthusiasts of repeater timepieces stands out with its open architecture without a conventional dial. The repeater mechanism – for the first time with the hammers and gongs – can be admired in action without removing the watch from the wrist. This is a further expression of Patek Philippe’s customer- centric development philosophy. The transparency aspect also applies to the tourbillon: the back side of its cage can be seen beneath the seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. In this veritably perfect composition, the filigreed steel parts glisten against the backdrop of the rose gilt plate.

Superlative finishings

The aesthetic of the manually wound caliber R TO 27 PS was subtly reworked to emphasize its appeal. For instance, certain components were pierced, as is common for skeletonized movements. Of course, Patek Philippe also mobilized its heritage in the manual finissage of movement parts: it decorated the plate with Genevan circular graining, applied a delicate perlage to the recesses, and decorated the hammers with a circular satin finish.

The inimitable rose-gold case sports a wide, cambered and polished bezel as well as white-gold inlays with foliage engravings that grace the caseband and the strap lugs. A white-gold slide in the left-hand case flank that activates the minute repeater features the same motif. The hour circle is black-lacquered sapphire-crystal rim with powdered rose-gold markers. The movement can be admired through the sapphire-crystal case back and is framed by a white- gold rim. Its open-worked decoration echoes the case inlays and the repeater slide.

This fantastic lesson in watchmaking artistry, elegance, and manual finissage is complemented with the unique sound that is typical of Patek Philippe repeater timepieces. As is the case for every Patek Philippe minute repeater, this melody of time is personally rated with great care by manufacture president Thierry Stern.

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust

Iconic aesthetics

Rolex is introducing four new white Rolesor versions (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold) of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31. A first watch, featuring a bezel set with 46 brilliant-cut diamonds, has an auber- gine, sunray-finish dial that is adorned with a diamond-set Roman VI. The three other versions are fitted respectively with a mint green, sunray-finish dial, white lacquer dial, or dark grey, sunray-finish dial, and a fluted bezel in 18 ct white gold. The hands and index hour markers or Roman numerals on all four watches are also in 18 ct white gold. Light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the elegant profile of the 31 mm Oyster case.

These new watches are equipped with calibre 2236, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Timeless style

Rolex’s Datejust is the archetype of the classic watch thanks to functions and aesthetics that never go out of fashion. Launched in 1945, it was the first self-winding waterproof chronometer wristwatch to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock on the dial, and consolidated all the major innovations that Rolex had contributed to the modern wristwatch until then. The Datejust has spanned eras while retaining the enduring aesthetic characteristics that make it so instantly recognizable.

Rolesor, a marriage of gold and steel

Rolesor, the combination of 18 ct gold and Oystersteel on a Rolex watch, has been a signature feature of the brand since 1933, when the name was registered. It is a meeting of two metals: one, noble and precious, attractive for its lustre and stability; the other, known for its resistance to corrosion, ensures strength and reliability. All of these qualities perfectly mirror the elegance and performance that come together in a Rolex watch.

On the new white Rolesor versions of the Datejust 31, the bezel is made of 18 ct white gold, while the winding crown, middle case, bracelet and clasp are in Oystersteel.

The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness

A paragon of robustness and elegance, the Oyster case of the Datejust 31 is guaranteed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particu- larly corrosion-resistant alloy. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. A Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the watch’s movement.

OYSTER AND JUBILEE bracelets

These white Rolesor versions of the Datejust 31 are fitted with an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. Developed at the end of the 1930s, the three-piece link Oyster bracelet is known for its robustness. Supple and comfortable, the five-piece link Jubilee bracelet was specially created for the launch of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust in 1945.

The Oyster bracelet on the versions with either an aubergine or white lacquer dial is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp and the Easylink comfort extension link, developed by Rolex, that allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. The Jubilee bracelet on versions with a mint green or dark grey dial is equipped with an elegant concealed folding Crownclasp. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER

An invitation to travel perpetually

Rolex is presenting a new 18 ct yellow gold version of its Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller, fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet. The watch is the first in the Classic category to include this innovative bracelet made of high-performance elastomer. It also features a bright black, sunray-finish dial with hands and hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold. The light reflections on the case sides and lugs highlight the refined profile of the 42 mm Oyster case.

This new version is of course equipped with the fluted, rotatable bezel unique to the Sky-Dweller, which is used to set the watch in conjunction with the Ring Command system. It also has a Chromalight display: the hands and hour markers are coated or filled with a luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow in dark conditions.

This new version of the Sky-Dweller is equipped with calibre 9001, at the forefront of watchmaking technology. Like all Rolex watches, the Sky-Dweller carries the Superlative Chronometer certifi- cation, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual SKY-DWELLER – A wealth of EXPERTISE

An elegant watch for frequent travellers, the Sky-Dweller displays the time in two time zones simultaneously and has an annual calendar. The reference time, in 24-hour format, is shown via an off-centre disc, and the local time is read using conventional centre hands. The annual calendar, named Saros, automatically differentiates between 30- and 31-day months. It is operated by a patented mechanism and stands out for its innovative display: the months of the year are indicated in 12 apertures around the circumference of the dial, with the current month marked in red. The instantaneous date change is linked to the local time.

The Sky-Dweller includes the Ring Command system, an interface between the rotatable bezel, winding crown and movement that allows the wearer to select and set the timepiece’s functions one by one, easily, quickly and securely.

Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness

A paragon of robustness and reliability, the Oyster case of the Sky-Dweller is guaran- teed waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). The middle case is crafted from a solid piece of 18 ct yellow gold. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetic- ally screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. A Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal is made of virtually scratchproof sapphire and is fitted with a Cyclops lens at 3 o’clock for easy reading of the date. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the watch’s movement.

Perpetual calibre 9001

This new version of the Sky-Dweller is equipped with calibre 9001, a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex. With multiple patents filed, this mechanical, self-winding movement is one of the most complex calibres created by the brand. Its architecture, manufacturing and innovative features make it exceptionally precise and reliable.

Calibre 9001 has a blue Parachrom hairspring manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance. Calibre 9001 is equipped with a self- winding module via a Perpetual rotor and offers a power reserve of approximately 72 hours.

Oysterflex bracelet

The new 18 ct yellow gold version of the Sky-Dweller is fitted with an Oysterflex bracelet, which singularly combines the robustness and reliability of a metal bracelet with the flexibility, comfort and aesthetics of an elastomer strap. Developed and patented by Rolex, this innovative bracelet is made up of flexible metal blades manufactured from a titanium and nickel alloy. The blades are overmoulded with high-performance black elastomer, a material that is particularly resistant to environmental effects and very durable. For enhanced comfort, the inside of the Oysterflex bracelet is equipped with longitudinal cushions.

The Oysterflex bracelet on this new version of the Sky-Dweller is equipped with a folding Oysterclasp in 18 ct yellow gold, designed and patented by Rolex. In addition, it features the Rolex Glidelock extension system, also developed and patented by the brand. This particularly inventive mechanism comprises a rack located under the clasp cover and a toothed sliding link that locks into the chosen notch. The Rolex Glidelock on the Oysterflex bracelet has six notches of approximately 2.5 mm, allowing the length of the bracelet to be adjusted easily, and without tools, up to some 15 mm.

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner 41

Conquering the deep

Rolex is introducing the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Oyster Perpetual Submariner Date. Watches that exemplify the historic links between Rolex and the world of diving. Both timepieces now feature a redesigned, slightly larger 41 mm case. Its profile is highlighted by the light reflections from the case sides and lugs and are fitted on a remodelled bracelet. They are equipped with movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology. The Submariner with calibre 3230, unveiled by the brand this year, and the Submariner Date with calibre 3235, offering both time and date functions, and used in the Submariner range for the first time.

True to its aesthetic heritage, the new Submariner in Oystersteel has a black dial and rotatable bezel with matching Cerachrom insert. A yellow Rolesor version (combining Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold) of the Submariner Date presents a royal blue dial with a rotatable bezel and a blue Cerachrom insert.

Two versions of the Submariner Date, one in Oystersteel and the other in 18 ct white gold, bring distinctive colour combinations, with the dial and Cerachrom insert in different hues. The first watch blends a black dial with a green bezel, while the second proposes a black dial and a blue bezel. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Submariner Date carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

An extraordinary history

The creation of the Submariner is closely linked to the development of deep-sea diving. In the early 1940s, the exploration of the deep marked a significant turning point with the advent of scuba diving. At the time, Rolex played an important role in the development and manufacturing of water-proof chronometer wristwatches. A key role thanks in particular to the Oyster case, patented in 1926. As the brand wanted to create a watch that met divers’ practical needs as closely as possible, in the 1950s it began an experimental process that involved many successful collaborations with div- ing pioneers. The experiments carried out and subsequent technical advances led to the introduction in 1953 of the Submariner, the first divers’ wristwatch waterproof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet).

Just a year after its launch, the waterproofness of the Submariner was increased to a depth of 200 metres (660 feet). The watch was soon fitted with other technical innovations, such as a luminescent disc on the hour hand to clearly distinguish it from the minute hand, and a crown guard.

In 1969, Rolex unveiled the Submariner Date, adding the date function. Its waterproof- ness, then guaranteed to 200 metres, was extended in 1979 to a depth of 300 metres (1,000 feet). The waterproofness of the Submariner achieved the same depth in 1989. Over time, the appeal of the Submariner and Submariner Date has extended well beyond the marine world. With their proven performance, these tool watches have become archetypes of the action watch on land as underwater.

Legibility and functionality

When diving, being able to read the time with absolute certainty is a matter of sur- vival. Therefore, the dial of the Submariner and Submariner Date is designed to be clean and unambiguous. The hour and minute hands, clearly differentiated in size and shape, and the hour markers in simple geometric forms – triangles, circles and rectangles – enable instant and reliable reading, preventing any risk of confusion underwater.

The Submariner and Submariner Date also feature a Chromalight display: the hands and hour markers are coated or filled with a lumi- nescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow in dark conditions. On the bezel, the triangular zero marker is also visible in darkness thanks to a capsule containing the same luminescent material.

High-technology ceramic

Rolex played a pioneering role in the devel- opment of special ceramics for creating monobloc bezels and bezel inserts. Not only are these materials virtually scratchproof, their colours are also of a rare intensity and are resistant to environmental effects. Rolex has developed exclusive expertise and innovative manufacturing methods that grant it complete independence in the production of these ceramic components.

On these versions of the Submariner and Submariner Date, the unidirectional rotatable bezel is fitted with a 60-minute graduated Cerachrom insert in black, green or blue ceramic that allows divers to confidently monitor their dive times. The moulded, recessed graduations and numerals are coated with platinum or yellow gold via PVD (Physical Vapour Deposition). The bezel’s knurled edge offers excellent grip, to comfortably set dive time even when wearing gloves.

 

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Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 & 36

The new Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41 and 36mm

Oyster Perpetual 41

 

Rolex presents the new generation of its Oyster Perpetual watches and brings a new model to the range, the Oyster Perpetual 41, as well as versions of the Oyster Perpetual 36 displaying dials in vivid colours. The light reflections on the case sides highlight the elegant profile of the Oyster case, which is made from Oystersteel. Measuring 41 mm or 36 mm respectively, it is fitted with a domed bezel. One version of the Oyster Perpetual 41 has a novel configuration: its silver, sunray-finish dial is graced with hands and hour markers in 18 ct yellow gold. A second version is introduced with a bright black sunray-finish dial, and hands and hour markers in 18 ct white gold.The Oyster Perpetual 36 is unveiled with a dynamic and vibrant new look, offering lacquer dials in five new colours: candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green.

The new generation Oyster Perpetual model has a Chromalight display: the hands and hour markers are coated or filled with a luminescent material that emits a long-lasting blue glow in dark conditions. The Oyster Perpetual 41 and the new versions of the Oyster Perpetual 36 are equipped with calibre 3230, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, launched by Rolex this year. Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual 41 and Oyster Perpetual 36 carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

The essence of the Oyster

Watches in the Oyster Perpetual range are direct descendants of the original Oyster, the world’s first waterproof wristwatch, on which Rolex has built its reputation since 1926. These watches benefit from all the fundamental features of the Oyster Perpetual collection: chrono- metric precision, a waterproof Oyster case, and self-winding of the movement via a Perpetual rotor. Displaying hours, minutes and seconds, made exclusively of Oystersteel and featuring a sophisticated finish, these are chronometer wristwatches in their purest form.

The Oyster case, symbol of waterproofness

A paragon of robustness and elegance, the Oyster case of the Oyster Perpetual 41 and Oyster Perpetual 36 is guaranteed water- proof to a depth of 100 metres (330 feet). Its middle case is crafted from a solid block of Oystersteel, a particularly corrosion-resistant alloy. The case back, edged with fine fluting, is hermetically screwed down with a special tool that allows only Rolex watchmakers to access the movement. A Twinlock winding crown, fitted with a double waterproofness system, screws down securely against the case. The crystal is made of virtually scratch- proof sapphire. The waterproof Oyster case provides optimum protection for the watch’s movement.

Perpetual calibre 3230

The Oyster Perpetual 41 and the new versions of the Oyster Perpetual 36 are equipped with calibre 3230. A movement entirely developed and manufactured by Rolex, launched by the brand this year. At the forefront of watchmaking technology, this self-winding mechanical movement led to the filing of several patents, and offers fun- damental gains in terms of precision, power reserve, resistance to shocks and magnetic fields, convenience and reliability. Calibre 3230 incorporates the Chronergy escapement patented by Rolex, which com- bines high energy efficiency with great dependability. Made of nickel-phosphorus, it is also insensitive to magnetic fields. The

movement is fitted with an optimized blue Parachrom hairspring, manufactured by Rolex in an exclusive paramagnetic alloy that makes it up to 10 times more precise than a traditional hairspring in case of shocks. The blue Parachrom hairspring is equipped with a Rolex overcoil, ensuring the calibre’s regularity in any position. The oscillator is fitted on the Rolex-designed and -patented high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers, increasing the movement’s shock resistance

Oyster Bracelet

The Oyster Perpetual 41 and the Oyster Perpetual 36 are fitted with an Oyster brace- let in Oystersteel. Developed at the end of the 1930s, this three-piece link bracelet is known for its robustness. On this particular Oyster bracelet, the tops of the links are satin-finished, while the sides are polished. It is fitted with a folding Oysterclasp and the Easylink comfort extension link. Developed by Rolex, it allows the wearer to easily adjust the bracelet length by approximately 5 mm. It is the first time that this extension system has been used on a bracelet for the Oyster Perpetual range. In addition, a concealed attachment system ensures seamless visual continuity between the bracelet and case.

H. Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds

H. Moser & Cie. unveils the Streamliner Centre Seconds, which follows the self-winding Flyback chronograph

The self-winding Flyback chronograph launched in January 2020 was the first model in the Streamliner collection. “Streamliner” is a reference to the first high-speed trains from the Twenties and Thirties, whose rounded curves these models re-interpret. This new model focuses on the essential: hours, minutes, centre seconds. Equipped with a steel case on an integrated steel bracelet, the aesthetic of the Streamliner Centre Seconds is perfectly harmonious, from its ideal proportions and fluid forms to its high-end finishes. It is paired with a brand-new and uniquely elegant fumé dial in Matrix Green.

A philosophy

A staple classic, the 3-hand watch requires expertise of the very highest level, as it is the details that elevate a piece. Balanced, precise proportions are the key to harmony, and the Streamliner Centre Seconds perfectly illustrates this philosophy. Featuring a 40.0-mm steel cushion case, which is water-resistant to 12 ATM, it offers extraordinary ergonomics thanks to the design which includes a fully integrated steel bracelet with no lugs on the case.

The case middle has hollowed and satin-finished forms on the sides, and alternating brushed and polished surfaces, in a nod to the traditional unusual shapes typical of Moser cases. It is topped by a subtly domed sapphire crystal, echoed by the see-through case back. Extending these curves, the integrated steel bracelet is elegantly arced to follow the line of the wrist. Highly complex in construction, this bracelet has extremely fluid lines, based on organic forms. All the links are articulated and feature a gentle wave combining a vertical brushed finish with polished surfaces. A true technical feat, this bracelet is a masterpiece of subtlety and sophistication, with flexibility to match.

The continuation of a model

Every part of the Streamliner Centre Seconds is in harmony; to further elevate the steel of the case and bracelet, H. Moser & Cie. has created a brand-new fumé dial: almost electric, the vibrant Matrix Green colourway offers a complex palette of shades from olive green to red gold. This brand-new colour dial adds the finishing touch to the timeless elegance of this model. Displaying the hours and minutes, the 3D hands are formed of two sections and feature inserts made from Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material which contains Super-LumiNova®. The minute hand is curved.

Beating at the heart of the Streamliner Centre Seconds model is a 100% Swiss mechanical movement: the HMC 200 self-winding calibre. Entirely designed, developed and produced in-house, this movement is equipped with a regulating organ manufactured by H. Moser & Cie.’s sister company, Precision Engineering AG. Decorated with the famous Moser double stripes, the HMC 200 calibre houses a solid gold oscillating weight and offers a minimum power reserve of 3 days.

H. Moser & Cie.’s own and unique take on Haute Horlogerie.

H. Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds

Caja de acero, rematada por un cristal de zafiro ligeramente abombado Diámetro: 40,0 mm
Altura sin cristal de zafiro: 9,9 mm
Hermético hasta 12 ATM
Movimiento calibre de cuerda automática HMC 200

Precio por consultar…

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Omega Seamaster 007 numbered edition

OMEGA Goes Platinum-Gold For New James Bond Watch

Cutting-edge style and innovation have always been essential parts of the James Bond story. In keeping with that legacy, OMEGA has now delivered a brand new Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition, offering plenty of high-tech details for 007 fans to enjoy.

OMEGA has been equipping James Bond with its Seamaster timepieces since GoldenEye in 1995. This special new release is a proud celebration of that partnership, and provides a new addition to the 007 collection.

For an exceptional look, the 42 mm case is crafted in platinum-gold, with a platinum- gold plate on its side, engraved with each Numbered Edition number. The same beautiful material is also used for the polished-brushed buckle of the watch’s black leather strap.

More unique details can be uncovered throughout the design, including a black ceramic bezel ring with a platinum diving scale in positive relief, as well as a black enamel dial, which has been given a spiralling gun barrel design in 18K white gold.

As part of the OMEGA James Bond collection that was launched last year, this watch also includes a hidden number 50 within the Super-LumiNova of the 10 o’clock index – a reference to the 50th anniversary of the James Bond film On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Elsewhere on the dial, you can find a 007 logo at 7 o’clock on the white enamel minute track, as well as 18K white gold features, including the hands, indexes and Bond family coat-of-arms at 12 o’clock.

Turning the watch over reveals a second Bond family coat-of-arms, which has been laser-engraved and filled with platinum on the sapphire crystal caseback. Its captivating final effect is completed with hand-engraved finishing in the finest detail. Through the glass, you can spy the OMEGA Co-Axial Master Chronometer Calibre 8807 – certified at the highest standards of precision, chronometric performance and magnetic resistance.

Finally, for fans who are able to obtain this Seamaster Diver 300M James Bond Numbered Edition, it comes presented in its own Globe-TrotterTM suitcase, bound by NATO-inspired straps. Inside, an additional black rubber strap is included.

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