What began as an April fool’s joke, to this day year ago has become a watch. Exactly one year ago, an innocent “tongue in cheek” moment the LOLLIPOP by Sartory-Billard has come to life at the request of CronotempVs Collectors. Sorry, we could not resist the temptation when we saw it…
Hand painted and signed
The meticulous craftsmanship of each dial begins with its manufacturing process, carefully sculpted to embody the essence of the Lollipop design. Every curve, contour, and detail is meticulously crafted to capture the spirit of the timepiece. However, what truly elevates these dials to a level of unparalleled artistry is the final touch provided by the skilled hand of none other than André Martinez. A household name amongst haute Horologerie manufacturers. He was also kind enough to sign each and every 14 dials.
Bracelet & Strap
Each SB07 timepiece is crafted with meticulous attention to detail, marrying style and comfort to provide an unparalleled wrist-wearing experience. In our dedication to ensuring complete satisfaction, every SB07 watch comes with two adaptable straps: a metal bracelet featuring adjustable end links, and a finely crafted rubber strap courtesy of Delugs.
The Delugs rubber strap has been created with meticulous attention to detail, embodying both exceptional craftsmanship and unparalleled comfort.
Based on the SB07
The inspiration behind the SB07 sports watch stemmed from the aspiration to craft a versatile timepiece suitable for various settings and activities. Recognising the growing interest in both functional and stylish sports watches, we identified a niche for a premium timepiece that seamlessly blended durability, functionality, and sophisticated aesthetics. This latest sports watch marks a departure from our earlier dress watch models, presenting a chic yet practical choice tailored for active individuals.
10ATM
40mm in diameter, 48mm lug-to-lug, and 10.65mm in height (metal). Makes for a very light and pleasant wear. Its proportions are well balanced despite the 100 meters waterproof rating.
68 hours automatic movement
The heart of the Lollipop timepiece beats with precision and reliability, thanks to the La Joux-Perret automatic G100 movement that drives its intricate mechanisms. La Joux-Perret is renowned for its expertise in crafting high-quality movements that blend tradition with innovation, and the G100 is no exception. This self-winding movement ensures the smooth and accurate operation of the watch, providing its wearer with a seamless and reliable timekeeping experience.
One of the standout features of the Lollipop is its impressive power reserve of 68 hours. This means that even if the watch is not worn for a couple of days, it will continue to keep time accurately without needing to be wound. This extended power reserve adds convenience to the watch wearer’s experience, allowing them to enjoy the timepiece without worrying about constantly winding it.
Presenting the CronotempVs CT12 by Sartory-Billard
In a landmark collaboration, Sartory-Billard and CronotempVs are proud to present the unparalleled excellence of the CT12 Tourbillon and the subsequent introduction of the SB06 line to the watch collector community. As fellow enthusiasts, we have embarked on this journey with eagerness, aspiring to celebrate yet another notable landmark for the club.
The CT12 stands as a testament to the trajectory of CronotempVs as a watch collector’s club. In a constant stride for evolution, the CT12 Tourbillon has given birth to Sartory-Billard’s SB06 line. The SBTV01 caliber, developed exclusively by Comblemine for Sartory-Billard, is a unique and captivating project turned reality in the world of watches. It stands firm as a standalone flying Tourbillon, meticulously assembled and fine-tuned by a single master watchmaker—a rare dedication in an era where such craftsmanship is scarce among more commercial brands. This commitment to traditional watchmaking philosophy deserves applause in an industry where it’s increasingly overlooked.
Juxtaposed against this deep-rooted tradition is a strikingly modern design that has been ingrained in Sartory-Billard’s identity since its establishment. Embracing a philosophy centered on bespoke craftsmanship without forsaking the intangible elements of art and passion, the CT12 opens a window into superlative watchmaking while maintaining a steadfast commitment to the bespoke DNA and design language of Sartory-Billard.
SBTV01 Flying Tourbillon
When first considering a tourbillon, we delved deep into the world of movements, forging a conviction that “off-the-shelf” options or modifying existing products wouldn’t meet the true collector’s standards. This ethos birthed the caliber SBTV01— an embodiment of a true and unwavering philosophy.
Distinct from other available movements, the caliber SBTV01 developed by Comblemine embodies an exclusive Flying Tourbillon construction tailored specifically for Sartory-Billard’s timepieces. It features an almost invisible top bridge crafted from sapphire that requires skill in handling, revealing detail and giving light and depth to the movement. Together with the two arching bridges, this movement design allows for maximum visibility. Embracing the essence of true “Haute Horlogerie,” every component, even those unseen without disassembly, undergoes meticulous finishing. The inward angles of the arching bridges and tourbillon are finished by none other than Philippe Narbel, an absolute reference in high-end movement finishing.
At its core, the CT12 boasts the formidable Flying Tourbillon SBTV01 caliber with a manual winding mechanism and a 96-hour power reserve, beating at 3Hz. Enough to last for up to four days.
As is customary in “haute horlogerie” the meticulous assembly of each SBTV01 movement rests solely in the hands of a singular watchmaker—from the initial individual parts to the final regulation and testing at the workshop.
A new enclosure
At first glance, the CT12 may appear to be the same as the SB05, yet unbeknownst to most, the case of the CT12/SB06 has undergone significant modifications. The dimensions have expanded to 41mm while maintaining the thinnest possible case construction to preserve the best proportions. The lugs have been designed with smaller wrists in mind, thus adapting to the broadest range of wrists possible. As mentioned before, the case back incorporates a double-domed sapphire glass that helps project light into the movement, giving it a more raised appearance. Simultaneously, the use of front and back double-domed sapphire crystals makes the look and feel of the CT12 considerably thinner and more elegant
DNA
Crafted based on the distinctive Sartory-Billard design philosophy, the CT12 showcases an evolution from the SB05 to the SB06, respecting the brand’s design language and bespoke philosophy. The CT12 Tourbillon is the first club watch that incorporates the option for every member to choose the dial/color/material combination. It is a first and perhaps not in the spirit of a club watch, but not acknowledging this fundamental and distinctive trait of the brand would be an oversight.
The Hands
If there is one element that makes Sartory-Billard instantly recognizable, it is unquestionably its hands. Manufactured out of two parts, one sandblasted and the other polished, they are unique in every way. The design and properties of these hands ensure legibility even in poorly lit conditions. The CT12 retains these extraordinary hands and design unchanged.
A unique box
To make the CT12 stand out, we chose none other than Bosphorus Leather to create a container that would be both elegant and provide adequate protection for the CT12. The handmade watch case is a variation from their two-watch case, turned into a single watch holding container. A great balance between luxury, protection, and size has been achieved by Bosphorus Leather when crafting this case. The case complements the black, anthracite, and silver colors of the movement, with a neutral interior to not interfere with the bespoke nature of the CT12. Each case has been individually numbered to match the corresponding CT12 club watch.
The Strap
Like the dial, the strap has been carefully chosen to match the dial or the owner’s taste. Handmade by Scarlett Paris, the strap is completely bespoke in leather type, color, and size. As with all those involved in the creation of this timepiece, Scarlett Paris is a household name amongst discerning collectors around the globe.
From CronotempVs, we would like to extend our gratitude to all who made this “club watch” possible: Comblemine, Philippe Narbel, Bosphorus Leather, Scarlett Paris, and last but not least, Armand Billard, without whom the CT12 would have never been possible. Armand’s spirit, vision, and patience have been paramount for the completion of this project.
As a private collector’s club, we take much pride in all those that have done club watches with us past and present. We look to the future with wonder and enthusiasm what will come next.
TAG Heuer presents the Carrera CronotempVs Collectors, a limited edition chronograph inspired by a model from 1974
In this year 2023, TAG Heuer is proud to celebrate the 60th anniversary of a global icon: the TAG Heuer Carrera watch. For six decades, this timeless model from the Swiss watchmaking brand has defined the design of high-performance watches, the spirit of competition, and the culture of success.
Since its launch in 1963, the TAG Heuer Carrera model has become a symbol of aspiration, achievement, and good taste. Throughout six decades, it has been worn on the wrists of fashion icons, from Mick Jagger to James Hunt and Ryan Gosling. Always maintaining its sleek profile, backed by Swiss mechanics and refinement.
And just like that, an icon was born
The story of the TAG Heuer Carrera has become a legend. It began in the early 1960s when young Jack Heuer heard about a race in his home country of Mexico called the Carrera Panamericana, an extremely fast and dangerous road race that was held five times in the early 1950s before being canceled. “Carrera” was a word with several meanings: “competition,” “professional career,” or simply “road.” Jack decided that this was the perfect name for his new line of chronographs with a competitive spirit aimed at a young, elegant, and upwardly mobile generation, in tune with the increasingly freer tastes of the 1960s.
In 1963, the Heuer Carrera model made its debut. It was a carefully thought-out design and a clear expression of Jack’s philosophy. On one hand, it was a tool, created to be useful and functional, so its design was clean and legible, without any distracting elements. On the other hand, it was also modern and inventive. It was Jack’s idea, for example, to press the tachymeter scale onto the tension ring, an innovative device unique to the Carrera watch, which was used to hold the crystal in place and protect the watch from dust and water.
An unprecedented chronograph for collectors
The purity and simple effectiveness of its design also made it beautiful, to the point that over six decades, the TAG Heuer Carrera model has become a perennial favorite among watch collectors, an industry icon, and an incredible success story. Jack’s inspiring vision remains relevant and as powerful as it was 60 years ago.
In this special year for the Carrera, TAG Heuer has partnered with CronotempVs Collectors, one of the world’s most important watch collectors’ communities based in Madrid, to create an unprecedented Carrera chronograph. It is a limited edition of 74 pieces, inspired by the Heuer Carrera chronograph (ref. 1153BN) from 1974. This watch is nicknamed the “Yachting” by collectors due to the orange segment present in the minute counter.
Elegance with maximum visibility
The TAG Heuer Carrera CronotempVs Collectors watch continues a story that began 60 years ago, perpetuating a classic shape: a simple round case with a diameter of 42mm in brushed and polished steel. In addition, the integrated flowing lugs and ergonomic chronograph pushers at 2 and 4 o’clock enhance the comfort on the wrist.
The anthracite gray dial retains the design of the original 1974 model with a silver tachymeter. Furthermore, the bluish-black minute chronograph counter with an orange segment is located at 3 o’clock, while the bluish-black hour chronograph counter is positioned at 9 o’clock. At 6 o’clock, there is a small seconds sub-dial and a date window. The hour and minute indices and hands are polished rhodium-plated with white Super-LumiNova® coating. A central orange second hand, matching the minute counter, adds to the sporty style of the Carrera CronotempVs Collectors.
The Calibre Heuer 02
Inside the TAG Heuer Carrera CronotempVs Collectors, you will find an evolved version of the automatic chronograph caliber from TAG Heuer’s manufacture, the Heuer 02. Named as TH20-00, this new-generation movement now features a bidirectional winding rotor. In daily use, this improvement allows for quicker and more reliable winding, ensuring that the watch operates closer to its maximum power reserve of 80 hours and improving precision over extended periods of use. The TH20-00 caliber also boasts enhanced finishes, aligning with TAG Heuer’s vision of creating watches with both technical and aesthetic movements.
The Heuer 02 is Carole Forestier-Kasapi’s brain child and in her words; “The TH20-00 represents a leap in quality and durability. All TAG Heuer movements will now have to meet this new benchmark of excellence. »
Developed entirely in-house and produced at our movements manufacturer in Chevenez. The key element of the Heuer 02 is its chronograph, the beating heart of TAG Heuer watchmaking, designed to measure performance and sports records. Designed with passion and flair, the Heuer 02 movement is renowned for being the driver of iconic collections such as Carrera, Monaco, and more recently Monza or Autavia Chronometer Flyback.
Finally, the TAG Heuer Carrera CronotempVs Collectors comes with a perforated black calf leather strap with a deployant clasp and a “Limited Edition” case
TAG Heuer Carrera “Cronotempvs Collectors” Chronograph
Movement
Calibre HEUER02 Automatic
Functions
Hours, minutes, seconds, date, chronograph
Dial
Black sand-blasted dial with silver flange and Tachymetric scale
Three counters:
3 o’clock: black minute chronograph counter with orange accents; rhodium-plated polished hand
9 o’clock: black minute chronograph counter; rhodium-plated polished hand
6 o’clock: permanent second indicator; rhodium-plated polished hand
Rhodium-plated polished applied indexes
Rhodium-plated facetted, polished hour and minute hands with white Super-LumiNova®
Orange lacquered central seconds hand
6 o’clock date
Case
42 mm diameter Polished steel case Polished steel standard crown at 3 o’clock Polished steel round push buttonat 2 o’clock Polished steel round push button at 4 o’clock Steel screw-down sapphire caseback
Water resistance: 100 meters
Bracelet
Black Racing calfskin/leather strap
Steel folding clasp with double safety push buttons
The Horophile has reimagined the Raketa Avant-Garde in his distinctive violet hue, paying homage to the visionary Russian modern artists of the late 19th and early 20th century.
The Russian Avant-Garde movement has had an immeasurable and undeniable influence on the realm of contemporary art. Drawing inspiration from Malevich’s suprematism, Lissitzky’s constructivism, and Kandinsky’s abstraction, the Raketa Avant-Garde exemplifies the exceptional nature of the Russian avant-garde art movement and its enduring relevance.
A masterpiece in perpetual motion, the Raketa Avant-Garde mesmerizes with its interplay of geometric shapes and vibrant colors, perpetually transforming its composition with the passage of time and the interplay of light and shadow. The juxtaposition of radiant luminescent orange and metallic violet imparts an unexpected and electrifying quality to this wearable work of art.
True to its origins
As with all Raketa timepieces, the Avant-Garde is driven by an automatic movement meticulously crafted and produced at the esteemed Raketa Watch Factory in Saint Petersburg. For this special edition, the winding rotor has been adorned in a regal purple shade, while the bridges are embellished with an Avant-Garde motif reflecting the same colors as the dial.
Limited to a mere 50 pieces, the Raketa x The Horophile Avant-Garde Limited Edition comes accompanied by a black leather strap and an orange leather strap, allowing for versatile and stylish options when adorning this extraordinary timepiece.
A cigar-inspired, retro-styled limited-edition watch and presentation case
For CronotempVs Collectors and The Lounge by Watchonista by Cuervo y Sobrinos in collaboration with Eric Giroud’s Somewhere
Inspired by the world of premium cigars, the Lonsdale watch and its presentation case are the brainchild of two seasoned cigar smokers: Scaramanga, co-founder of CronotempVs Collectors international watch collectors club, and Marco Gabella, chairman and publisher of leading online watch magazine Watchonista, and its luxury lifestyle sub-platform The Lounge.
These two watch collectors and “brothers of the leaf” were savoring a couple of Cuban vitolas as part of a virtual cigar “herf” on Zoom during the COVID-19 pandemic, when they came up with the idea of collaborating with a watch brand to create a timepiece and presentation case that took cues from the sphere of fine cigars. Two years later, the Lonsdale is born.
Made by Cuervo y Sobrinos – the only luxury Swiss watchmaker with Cuban heritage – the Lonsdale is an understated time-only watch oozing vintage appeal thanks to its old-school design, inspired by classic Cuervo y Sobrinos references spawned during Havana’s mid-20th century heyday.
New dimensions
Boasting a distinctively shaped 40mm case in polished stainless steel and a clean, elegant dial with Alpha hands and period typeface, the Lonsdale comprises three 82-piece, small-batch limited editions, each named after shades of traditional cigar wrapper leaves: Candela, with silvered and green dial; Claro, with champagne dial; and Oscuro, with brown dial. “Uno de 82” is engraved on each caseback.
The Lonsdale is delivered in a versatile presentation case which, like a high-end cigar box, is crafted from Spanish cedar. On the outside, its leatherette cover features a gilded and embossed smoke swirl motif created by acclaimed watch designer Eric Giroud, as part of his personal design side project, Somewhere.
Inside, a presentation tray houses not only the Lonsdale watch but also three accessories fit for cigar lovers: a black cigar rest, a black and gilded cigar tube, and a NATO strap that resembles the silk ribbon used to bundle a wheel of quality cigars. The tray can be removed allowing the presentation case to be repurposed as a vide-poche for storing watch and cigar accessories, collectibles, or other personal effects. If combined with a humidity pack, the case can also be used for storing your favorite smokes.
The Londsdale and its presentation case can be pre-ordered now by visiting the CronotempVs online shop and committing to a 50 per cent down payment on the €2,500 sale price, excluding taxes and shipping. Click the following links to pre-order the Candela, Claro, or Oscuro edition of the Lonsdale.
Genesis of The Lonsdale: CronotempVs Collectors x The Lounge by Watchonista
Most watch enthusiasts tend to be renaissance men and women. Beyond their fascination for horology, they often have a range of interests about which they are passionate and knowledgeable: An appreciation of art and design, a taste for fine wine, good food and high-end spirits, or a need for speed met by superlative cars and motorbikes.
It’s with this in mind that Watchonista chairman and publisher Marco Gabella created The Lounge by Watchonista, a Watchonista sub-platform devoted to watch-adjacent lifestyle topics, through editorials, photoshoots and videos, as well as events and co-creations with friends and partners of The Lounge. It was while indulging in one of Gabella’s own non-watch pursuits – cigar smoking – that the seed for The Lonsdale was sown.
He and fellow cigar aficionado Scaramanga – co-founder of CronotempVs Collectors, known for its special-edition collaborations with watch brands – were enjoying an online cigar smoking session during lockdown in 2020 when their conversation turned to cigar-inspired watches. Why not join forces, they thought, and work together with a watch brand to create not just a special timepiece, but also a special presentation case inspired by the world of fine cigars?
Cuervo y Sobrinos: Swiss Manufacture, Latin Heritage
Gabella and Scaramanga immediately thought of Cuervo y Sobrinos. Today, Cuervo y Sobrinos operates out of its watchmaking atelier in Capolago, Switzerland and its production facility in Saignelégier in the Swiss Jura.
But its story began in 1882 when Don Ramón Fernández Cuervo, having emigrated from Spain to Cuba, established a jewelry boutique in Havana along with his six nephews, or sobrinos in Spanish. Offering a mix of its own-branded, Swiss-made watches as well as dual-branded watches – made by the likes of Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Longines – Cuervo y Sobrinos went on to enjoy huge success, especially during Havana’s roaring 1950s.
Nowadays, the modern-day brand expresses its “Swiss manufacture, Latin heritage” tagline through its art nouveau and art deco styled timepieces boasting tobacco tones, champagne hues and flamboyant flashes of color, delivered in watch boxes that can be repurposed as humidors.
Scaramanga says: “We were familiar with Cuervo y Sobrinos’ rich Cuban history and its cigar-inspired watches and accessories today. But to our knowledge, it hadn’t yet made a co-creation with passionate cigar smokers like us, so we proposed a collaboration feeling we were a natural fit for one another.”
Inspiration for The Lonsdale
With Cuervo y Sobrinos on board, the next step was to work on the watch design. While the watchmaker was open to exploring different designs, some wilder than others, CronotempVs Collectors and The Lounge by Watchonista were both intent on creating something in line with the roots of the brand.
Scaramanga says: “Thanks to the brand as well as friends who are vintage watch collectors, we were aware of Cuervo y Sobrinos’ historical references that it had offered at its Havana boutique as it flourished between the 1930s and ‘50s. Two pieces in particular caught our eye because of their mid-century elegance: The ‘Tradition’, for its eye-catching case, and another unnamed piece, for its clean, understated dial.”
He continues: “Marco and I asked Cuervo y Sobrinos if it would be possible to take the respective case and dial designs of these two references from yesteryear and recreate them in the form of a neo-vintage watch that transported us back to the heady times of 1950s Havana. Cuervo y Sobrinos shared our enthusiasm for reviving these seductive designs from the past.”
Distinctively Shaped Case
One of the first things you notice about the Lonsdale is the distinctive shape of its stainless-steel case, freshly developed for this project. The lugs’ lateral lines are straight and fan out along the caseband, lending the case a slight tonneau profile. However, the case is visually slimmed thanks to steps cut into the side at 3 and 9 o’clock, just like on the Tradition back in the day.
While the Tradition’s diameter was around 34mm, the Lonsdale’s is 40mm, that contemporary sweet spot that wears well on most wrists. Lug-pin to lug-pin distance is 44.6mm, and its height, excluding the sapphire crystal, is a pretty thin 8.6mm. Apart from these updated dimensions, there are plenty of period details to admire, each a throwback to the mid-20th century.
The case surfaces, for example, have been entirely polished, while the sapphire crystal is double domed in a protruding box style, contributing to the watch’s overall 10.5mm height. On the caseback, an engraved “coin slot” acts as a nod to the erstwhile system for opening up the back eight decades ago. The Lonsdale’s caseback is actually screwed down, but the screws have been concealed in order to remain aesthetically faithful to the original.
Clean, Retro-Styled Dial
The eye-catching case serves as a superb frame for the Lonsdale’s clean, elegant dial, available in three colorways, each named after different shades of capa i.e. cigar wrapper leaf:
Candela, with silvered dial and green numerals and hour-minute hands; Claro, with champagne dial and cream numerals and hour-minute hands; and, finally, Oscuro with brown dial and gilt numerals and hour-minute hands.
Nearly every detail of the visually-balanced dial is in keeping with the historical reference on which it is modelled: The dial plate features a smart vertical brushing, the central hours and minutes are displayed via Alpha hands, while the hour numerals are in a retro, sans serif typeface. Even the Cuervo y Sobrinos Habana logo is presented as it would have been back in the day. Next to the recessed, concentrically decorated small seconds are the words “Unicos Importadores” in reference to Cuervo y Sobrinos’ former status as sole importers of luxury watches in Cuba. Completing the indications is a printed railroad track for minutes around the dial periphery. And, in a rare touch of modernity, the hour-minute hands, numerals and dots at 6 and 12 o’clock all feature a colored Super-LumiNova that glows green in the dark for enhanced legibility.
Tried-and-Tested Automatic Movement
Powering the time-only indications is the automatic CYS 5158 caliber which, at its base, is a Sellita SW 261-1. This Swiss-made workhorse of a movement, with 38-hour power reserve, guarantees owners tried-and-tested reliability.
Adaptable Calfskin Strap
The Lonsdale is delivered on a hand-stitched brown calfskin strap with quick-release spring bar and polished stainless-steel pin buckle. Owners will receive two long and two short strap pieces which can be combined to make an overall strap that matches large, medium, or small wrist sizes.
The LONSDALE by Cuervo y Sobrinos
The Lonsdale watch is named after the premium cigar type of the same name, and with good reason. Like the Lonsdale watch, the Lonsdale cigar is quite slim, typically six to seven inches in length and with a 42 to 44 ring gauge. And like the Lonsdale watch, the Lonsdale cigar is evocative of a bygone era, for it was at the height of its popularity among smokers many decades ago.
Presentation Case: Like a Cigar Box, and Bearing the Touch of a Design Master
When owners receive their Lonsdale watch, the experience will be akin to that of receiving a box of limited-edition, premium smokes. That’s because the watch’s presentation case is fashioned in the style of a high-end cigar box.
Crafted from Spanish cedar – known for its ability to lock in moisture, thus helping cigars to age – the case has a leatherette cover that is decorated with a gilded smoke swirl pattern conceived by none other than Eric Giroud. This celebrated watch designer has started a personal side project – Somewhere – dedicated to the creation of designs for non-watch-related objects. His sinuous, modernist motif for the case of the Lonsdale is Somewhere’s first design commission.
Inside the case, owners will find not only the Lonsdale watch, but also three accessories sure to delight cigar fans: a cigar rest, a cigar case and a NATO watch strap to fit the Lonsdale. Connoisseurs will note the strap’s resemblance to the silk ribbon used to bundle high-end cigars. The case contents are presented on a tray that can be removed, allowing the case to transform into an attractive vide-poche. Inside, accessories, collectibles, and other personal effects can be stored – even cigars, when combined with a humidity pack.
How to Pre-Order
To pre-order the Londsdale, visit the CronotempVs online shop and place a 50 per cent down payment on the €2,500 sale price, excluding taxes and shipping. Each edition has its own page link: The Candela, the Claro, and the Oscuro.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS: THE LONSDALE WATCH
3 x 82-piece limited editions in polished stainless steel
Candela: Silvered dial, black hour-minute hands treated with mint green Super-LumiNova, mint green Super-LumiNovanumerals, black small seconds hand
Claro :Champagne dial, blued hour-minute hands treated with cream Super-LumiNova, cream Super-LumiNovanumerals, blued small seconds hand
Oscuro: Brown dial, rhodium-treated hour-minute hands treated with gilt Super-LumiNova, gilt Super-LumiNovanumerals, white small seconds hand
Dial and Hands
Vertical brushed dial plate
Central hours and minutes
Small seconds at 6 o’clock, recessed and concentrically decorated
Peripheral printed railroad track for minutes
Super-LumiNova-treated hour-minute hands, numerals and dots at 6 and 12 o’clock
Movement
CYS 5158 caliber, base Sellita SW 261-1
Winding: Automatic
Dimensions: 25.6mm x 5.6mm
Power reserve: 38 hours
Number of jewels: 31
Balance frequency: 28,800 vph / 4Hz
Case and Crystal
Material: Polished stainless steel
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 8.6mm; 10.5mm including sapphire crystal
Lug-pin to lug-pin distance: 44.6mm
Inter-lug width: 20mm
Water resistance: 50m/170ft/5atm
Double domed box sapphire crystal with interior anti-reflection coating
Crown signed with Cuervo y Sobrinos logo
Caseback: Horizontal coin slot, engravings “Cuervo y Sorbrinos Havana”, “Uno de 82”, gilded “Lonsdale”
Strap and Buckle
Hand-stitched brown calfskin strap with quick-release spring bar and polished stainless-steel pin buckle, length can be adapted to the owner’s wrist size
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS: PRESENTATION CASE
Contents
The Lonsdale watch
Leatherette travel pouch with embossed CronotempVs Collectors logo
Blackened and gilded aluminum cigar tube
Blackened aluminum cigar rest
Yellow NATO strap emblazoned with “Cuervo y Sobrinos”, “La Habana 1882” and “Lonsdale”
Specifications
Dimensions: 290mm x 175mm x 54mm
Solid Spanish cedar case covered with black leatherette
Decorated with gilded, embossed smoke swirl motif by Eric Giroud’s Somewhere
Inside of lid decorated with embossed Cuervo y Sobrinos logo
Removable leatherette-covered tray with compartments for above contents
Magnetic fastening
At the crossroad of technical advancement, watchmaking development and space-time inspiration, the UR-120 is a new stage in the constant mutation of the URWERK species. This UR-120 AKA SPOCK furthers the codes of the UR-110 collection and reshapes its concept
Hand up, palm forward, fingers parted in the middle, and then the greeting: “Live long and prosper!”
This is a meme known to all Trekkies, almost a world heritage, a salutation that rings like a blessing. This sign is also an integral part of URWERK’s brand DNA. It’s had pride of place on a wall of the Geneva workshop for ages. And now, so does it above the mainplate of the new UR-120 AKA SPOCK, whose time display reproduces the Vulcan salute. Such is the latest challenge Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have taken on, with the hope that it too shall live long and prosper.
This new satellite display of the UR-120 was born 16.5 million light-years from Earth, in the Beta Quadrant. That’s where the original inspiration for its display, a V-shaped open hand, is customary: in Mr. Spock’s civilization, on Vulcan. It relies on rotating satellites which split open so they can spin, each on their own axis. This unprecedented innovation allows for a substantial gain in thickness.
It translates into a unique volume. At 44 mm long, 47 mm wide and 15.8 mm thick, the UR-120 case stands out with its perfect sense of ergonomics. Maximum height is reached in the middle of the sapphire glass, at the apex of a gentle curve. The upper part of the case is totally smooth, without a single screw or notch, offering perfectly fluid lines.
“LIVE LONG AND PROSPER !”
The satellite splits open, revealing two rectangular studs. They take on a V shape, thus recreating the Vulcan salute that ultimately gave the UR-120 its name. Once separated, both studs spin on their own axis and shut, all in order to display the new hour unit. There is a triple revolution taking place under the hood of this spacecraft: the satellite-bearing carousel spins on a central axis, each satellite counter-spins in order to remain upright and therefore readable and each stud spins on its own axis.
The other aspects of the display remain typical of the original URWERK species: the satellite carousel moves along the minute track sector, located at the right hand side of the case. The side shown by the satellite and its position on that scale tell the hour and the minute.
UR-120’s first series takes on an almost entirely gray form. The upper-case part, the bezel, is made of finely sandblasted steel. The lower part is made of sandblasted titanium and opens up a new design era. A small window offers a direct view on the Windfänger, the star-shaped component which regulates the automatic winding intensity. In the center, a large medallion harbors two types of finishing: deep grooves all over and at 9 o’clock, a plaque bearing the URWERK monogram. The crown is crafted out of steel and the strap is also gray.
That monochromatic continuum is interspersed with golden shards. All Maltese crosses and lyre-shaped springs are 24ct-glod PVD treated, which underlines the technical aspects of this timepiece. Not unlike the Bussard ramjets at the front of the Enterprise’s warp engines.
Ball Watch and CronotempVs Collectors join to present the 00RED
When CronotempVs Collectors decided to collaborate in a piece by Ball Watch Co. it was clear that making a special piece would not be a easy task. Amongst all the possibilities, the Engineer III stood out as the most pragmatic choice to build upon. The goal was to stay within all unique qualities that the Engineer III is known for but focus on a feature that makes it unique in the industry. The tritium gas tubes. Within this peculiarity there are some colours that are very difficult to replicate or underperform with traditional luminous material such as red and white. Since it is at night when Ball watches excel in readability we decided to change the traditional 12 at midnight for a “00” since this is how midnight is displayed in devices today. At the moment when all standard luminous materials fail and BALL’s tritium gas tubes excel. This is how the 00RED by Ball Watch Co. came to be.
The impact of history
Nothing is more evident than the impact that the railroads had in the economic development had for the US. The backbone on which prosperity and growth was built upon. After a tragic accident in 1891, Great Kipton Train Wreck, Webb C. Ball is appointed Chief Time Inspector for the Lake Shore & Michigan Southern Railway. Three years later, “Ball Watch Co.” was founded to ensure a standard of timing reliability and accuracy to avoid such a tragedy to repeat itself. By 1908, Webb C. Ball was inspecting approximately 180 railroads and regulating more than 1 million railroad watches. Under his direction, train travel was made significantly safer for both the public and railroad employees. It is in homage to that catharsis that CronotempVs Collectors has decided to set the limit of manufactured units to 91.
The 00RED is a testament to the “tool watch” and it’s pragmatism. Without unnecessary narratives, discourses or superfluous functions the 00RED is strictly about telling time in all possible real life situations and conditions. Its numerous qualities that are mentioned bellow make the 00RED a most reliable companion for most occasions.
33 Tritium gas tubes
The tritium gas tubes in the 00RED are completely self-powered and 100 times brighter than conventional lume in total darkness. This luminescent technology safely seals pure tritium gas in lightweight mineral glass tubes. The amount of tritium used is considerably low so that its radioactive levels cause no risk to the wearer. This chemical process ensures luminous performance in total prolonged darkness.
A 904L stainless steel case
904L grade stainless steel is not widely used in the industry due to its increased solidity and difficulty to machine. Due to its additional amounts of chromium, molybdenum, nickel and copper, 904L steel features improved resistance to elements like corrosion, rust and acids. Its unique hardness withstands extreme conditions, while it displays a beautifully high polish and ages exquisitely well.
1,000 Gauss anti-magnetic resistance
The mu-metal shield protects the movement from magnetic disturbances. Mu-metal is an alloy of nickel, iron, copper and molybdenum with very high magnetic permeability, enabling it to attract and deviate static or low-frequency magnetic field lines and ensuring anti-magnetic properties far superior to the ones of the soft iron usually employed in watchmaking. The use of mu-metal is a genuine industrial feat, capable of protecting a mechanical watch against magnetic fields up to an astonishing intensity of 1,000 Gauss.
Resisting up to 5.000 Gs
Every BALL watch undergoes rigorous testing for impact resistance up to 5,000Gs. The crown, crystal and 9 o’clock position of the case are hit with a pendulum impact-testing machine to ensure impeccable performance according to ISO 1413, but also BALL’s stringent standards.
COSC precision
The RR1102-C calibre that beats inside the 00RED is COSC certified to guarantee an average daily rate of -4/+6 seconds accuracy. The COSC certificate is a Swiss horological standard since 1973 and is still considered a reference for many watch brands all over the world.
Commissioned exclusively for CronotempVs Collectors the “00RED” is a limited edition timepiece concieved in collaboration with Ball Watch Co.
Only 91 units of the “00 Red” will be made and delivered between 2022 and 2023.
Embracing codes to transcend them. If there was a common credo between the independent watchmaker Behrens and the customisation expert Label Noir, it would be this one. Two brands passionate about digressions, where creativity is king and character queen. Resulting of this exclusive collaboration, the Apolar Dark Moon takes the moon phase-out of its usual orbit, into a more obscure, eventful, and resolutely surprising territory. An unseen trajectory for a new time reading.
It is precisely with this ambition that Behrens the Hong- Konger has been freeing herself from convention for the past ten years and became renowned among the greatest. Its singularity: modifying its own movements by building internal mechanical modules offering a display both functional and diverse. Nominated at the GPHG 2020, the Apolar watch illustrates this constant innovation quest combined with the art of being different. Mechanical model developed entirely “in- house”, Apolar draws its inspiration from the orbital relationship between Earth and Moon. A celestial emanation with a unique design which could only enchant Label Noir to put its stamp on, rewrite its destiny. Fifth collaboration with a watch brand, the Apolar Dark Moon marks a new chapter in Label Noir’s co-branding history. A system allowing the Geneva watchmaker to sublimate inventive genius, magnify the material, and put its experience hallmark. Creative and offbeat luxury, unusual and metamorphosed timepieces.
« Rendez-vous » in dark night: a 100% Label Noir aesthetic
The Apolar series distinguishes itself by a resolutely atypical design. At the top, the mechanical Earth and Moon are revealed in a spherical design, guaranteeing a visual effect both three-dimensional and functional. At 12:00 on the dial, the globe dressed in black and grey rotates every 24 hours. A daily indicator adorned with a discreet red index through which the day/night function unfolds. And by a circumvolution effect, the Moon, small spherical globe attached to a large “inclined” rotating ring, moves around the Earth in a 28-day cycle. While seconds are housed at the heart’s dial by a two-pointer hand, hours and minutes radiate from two decentralised metal discs respectively located at 7 and 5 o’clock. A milestone in the watch design world, with an aesthetic entirely modified by the customisation workshop. Case, plate, discs, display, coating, bracelet, nothing has escaped to Emmanuel Curti’s, watchmaker and founder of the Geneva-based company who became a master in the art of sophisticated coatings. On the plate, seas, cirques, craters, and moon rocks come to life through the exclusive MMC process. Laser made, it creates a unique relief texture, which reproduces the lunar surface from NASA images. While the Apolar Dark Moon plays the textured monochrome card; stars, rays, and typographies, also redesigned, sparkle with blue Luminova in the night mystery.
The stainless-steel satin-finish polished 42mm case gives way to a polished matt titanium case middle, which also benefits from a specific Label Noir signature treatment, the DLC coating. An intense, sensual, and mysterious hue, an allegory of the contrast between the stars; in the same way Earth and the Moon repel each other to better attract.
Apolar: 100% Behrens development & construction
But as far as the mechanism is concerned, this timepiece, limited to 50 pieces showcased on a black fabric strap with white stitching, displays all the initial characteristics of the Apolar B020. A Swiss-made ETA Cal.2824 automatic movement, a 42-hour power reserve, a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, and water resistance to 50 metres. And since the brand has set out to develop an unprecedented demonstration of celestial movements, the Apolar model offers a skyline on its own. A domed sapphire crystal, Earth’s curvature, offers a new perspective for watch enthusiasts attracted by beautiful and rare. But before feeling the attraction law and falling for the Apolar Dark Moon, there is every reason to marvel at the box creative ingenuity. A space capsule top, black, massive, eloquent; and finally, from its bezel: to dive between sky and earth.
The Behrens Apolar Dark Moon x Label Noir, CHF 4’900, is available online on the Label Noir website, on the Behrens website, as well as retailers.
Zeitwinkel and CronotempVs Collectors present the 126º. A new direction for a traditional watchmaker
Few movements are so unique and inspiring as is the ZW0102 by Zeitwinkel. A standalone automatic movement in its category. The ZW0102 is assembled and adjusted by one watchmaker in its entirety. A philosophy that is no longer followed by most commercial brands. Only because of this, the Zeitwinkel 126º for CronotempVs Collectors and its traditional approach to horology deserves to be celebrated.
In contrast to this watchmaking tradition lies a very modern sober design that has become part of the manufactory’s DNA since its foundation in 2006. A philosophy focused on the essential finishing and chronometry but not discarding intangibles like art and passion. In all these years Zeitwinkel has never diverted from its austere and minimalistic design, until now.
With this long term collaboration, CronotempVs Collectors hopes to bring the excellence of Zeitwinkel’s horology to the watch collecting community. It is as watch enthusiasts that we eagerly begin this journey.
A unique movement
Long before the watches, Zeitwinkel started to think about movements. They quickly agreed that “off-the-shelf” movements where not acceptable, and neither was modifying existing products. The ZW0102 is a direct result of this philosophy.
Not based on any other movement, but a very solid and proprietary construction unique to Zeitwinkel watches. Bridges and plates are made from uncoated German Silver which is more difficult to handle and cannot hide any mistakes in decoration or fingerprints. This gives the movement a very sturdy quality that ages beautifully in a warm metallic colour. In true “Haute Horlogerie” tradition, all components are bevelled and decorated by hand even on parts that are not visible unless the watch and the movement are disassembled.
The ZW0102 boasts a very strong bi-directional automatic winding mechanism which backs up the 72-hours power reserve.
Each movement is assembled by hand by a “single” watchmakers start to finish from the individual parts. The same watchmaker will regulate and test the watch in the workshop in Saint-Imier. All movement components are manufactured in the vicinity of Saint-Imier.
The hands
Faceted with two straight surfaces that are at an angle to each other over almost the entire length of the hand. As a result, one side always reflects the incident light, thus creating a strong contrast with the dial. “Black or” surface treatment which results in a beautiful appearance, iridescently changing between a medium grey and a nearly black shade which results in excellent readability in contrast with the dial.
The one that stands out is without a doubt the unusually long seconds hand in the shape of a Venetian stiletto dagger. Its design and manufacturing will satisfy even the most fervent macro-photographers in search of perfection.
The dial
Constructed and based on a CronotempVs design with three distinctly different materials, surface structures and appearances. Central Maillechort (German Silver) dial plate changes its colour from a metallic silver to a very warm, almost golden shade.
To this is added an elaborately tapisserie of Zeitwinkel logos which are derived from the inverted letter “W” of the proprietary Zeitwinkel typeface. Manufactured in Switzerland with a high share of manual labour.
Like other CC editions, the strap of the 126º will be fitted to the owners size. The 126º comes standard with a shark-nobuk strap but there is also a natural leather option. All the straps are hand made by JacobStraps in Jaen, Spain.
The “126º” by Zeitwinkel is a CronotempVs Collectors commissioned exclusive limited production watch. Delivery of the first production batch is expected for fall 2022.
Zeitwinkel 126º for CronotempVs Collectors
Case: 42 mm wide and 11,7 mm high (39mm to be confirmed…)
Introducing: The Habring2 x Massena LAB ERWIN LAB03
Massena LAB, the timepiece creation studio founded by watch industry veteran William Massena, is proud to announce the release of the Habring2 x Massena LAB ERWIN LAB03, a new timepiece in collaboration with watchmaker Joshua N. Shapiro and certified by the Horological Society of New York. The watch – with its combination of classical design and proportions, skilled craftsmanship, and precise movement – is a testament to the creative watchmaking process and the friendships that are created along the way.
The new Habring2 x Massena LAB ERWIN LAB03 is a continuation of the highly sought after LAB series which started with the ERWIN LAB01, which was a mid-century designed dress watch with a deadbeat second mechanism and bronze case. That was followed by the Habring2 x Massena LAB ERWIN LAB02, a three-hand timepiece with a contrasting silver and rose gold sector dial, reminiscent of the watch design language from the 1930s. This watch, like its predecessors, takes its inspiration from horological history but presents itself in a way that appeals to the modern watch enthusiast.
Beginning with the dial, it was designed by William Massena and created by Joshua N. Shapiro in his watchmaking workshop in Los Angeles. One of the first things you will notice about this watch is the salmon dial color. Salmon dials have been in vogue recently, but what separates this dial from others is that it is entirely made of bronze, giving it a natural coloration. Most salmon dials on the market are usually painted copper plated. A watch of many firsts (more to come), this marks the first time that Mr. Shapiro has crafted his intricate designs in bronze.
Next is the unmistakable basketweave pattern, found at the center of the dial. A definitive feature, each dial is engine-tuned individually on an 80-year-old straight-line guilloché machine. The basketweave pattern is such an intricate pattern to craft, there are only a handful of watch companies that have the skill and know-how to successfully implement the design. Of the few companies that use it, only a few make it in the traditional methods that have been around for centuries. This type of old-school craftsmanship is a testament to the skill and artistry that Mr. Shapiro brings to this watch. Further, each dial is grained using a Water of Ayr stone. This stone was traditionally used in the watchmaking world for hundreds of years, but now the stone is mined out and nearly impossible to procure.
The salmon colored dial is complemented by navy indexes around the perimeter as well as navy Roman numerals at the 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. The Breguet style hour, minute, and seconds hands are navy blue as well. This overall execution feels like it could have come from the master watchmaker’s workshop itself.
Housed inside the 38.5mm stainless steel case is the Caliber A11MS hand-wound movement. Entirely developed, manufactured, and assembled in-house by Habring2. The key feature of this movement is the patented, deadbeat seconds mechanism, which ticks in one-second steps, driven by a gilded wheel and click spring. A full workings of this movement can be appreciated thanks to the watch’s sapphire caseback. The movement is first plated in rhodium for durability and then in 5N rose-gold, an aesthetic choice that works in harmony with the silver, salmon, and navy color composition of the watch. Additionally, the watch has been hand adjusted to the Horological Society of New York’s new Chronometer Certification Program specifications.
As mentioned earlier, this watch is a first in more than one way. The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) now offers a testing service for watchmakers and watch manufactures that wish to have their watches certified as a chronometer by a third party. HSNY’s rigorous testing protocol exceeds the international standards outlined in ISO 3159, and reflects HSNY’s 150+ years of dedication to advancing the art and science of horology. This new limited edition is the first watch to be officially certified as a chronometer under the standards of HSNY, and celebrates the new paradigm of judging the precision of timepieces.
Launching on August 24, 2021, the Habring2 Erwin x Massena LAB LAB03 will retail for $9,450 USD. Limited to 66 examples, the watch will be exclusively for sale at massenalab.com.
Massena LAB ERWIN LAB03
Model: Habring2 ERWIN LAB03, ref. E-LAB03
Functions: Hours, minutes, dead-beat seconds
Case Material: Stainless steel case
Crystal: Sapphire crystal front & back
Dimensions: 38.5mm
Dial: Bronze guilloché dial by Joshua N. Shapiro
Movement: Manufacture in-house Caliber A11MS hand-wound movement
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Water Resistance: 50 meters
Strap: Dark blue deer leather strap with stainless steel tang buckle
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