Categoría: Relojes

Audemars Piguet «Les Brassus»

Este pasado Octubre el club visito a Audemars Piguet en sus instalaciones de Le Brassus. Pocas veces se puede entender lo que la «Alta Relojería» realmente significa tan bien como en esta casa. Sin duda una de las mas sorprendentes, impresionantes y gratificantes visitas que se puedan hacer a una manufactura es la visita a Audemars Piguet. Tres días que dejaran huella en todos los afortunados que han podido visitar uno de los tres «príncipes» de la relojería. Una visita superlativa sin parangon, sencillamente extraordinario.

Breguet «L’Abbaye»

This past 27th of May, eight members of the club have been invited to take part in an extraordinary visit of Breguet’s manufacture in L’Abbaye. Breguet, without a doubt one of the historic brands amongst the «Haute Horlogerie» and despite being reborn from its ashes by the Swath Group still upholds the highest historical values of the brand.

This two day visit has done nothing but reinforce a sentiment of our highest esteem towards this brand. The investment an horological ethics which Breguet enforces and confronts its present and future are proof of that.

Este pasado 27 de Mayo, ocho destacados miembros del club fueron invitados a visitar la extraordinaria manufactura de Breguet en el pueblo de L’Abbaye. Breguet, sin duda un histórico de la Alta Relojería que a pesar de ser renacido de sus cenizas por el Grupo Swatch sigue representando todos los valores históricos de la marca.

La visita que duro dos días no hizo mas que reforzar el sentimiento hacia esta gran casa. La inversion e rigor relojero con el que Breguet afronta su presente y futuro son prueba de ello.

CronotempVs 2 by «Speake-Marin»

The process of conceiving the piece was an absolute joy. Absolutely NO impediments, NO problems and NO difficulties of any kind. The idea is based on the original “Spirit Pioneer” but with the new “EROS 1” calibre and incorporating that stunning blue rotor. The indexes have been pushed outward to make them coincide with the date opening. In turn the date opening was placed at 2 o’clock mimicking an index in order to disturb as least as possible the balance of the dial design. The second day of the month is in Roman numeral “II” like the indexes on the dial. (This is a homage to the CronotempVs II.) The date format for all other days is displayed in traditional Arabic numerals. The rear is engraved CronotempVs II and CW meaning “Club Watch”. The hands and round/dot-indexes are made out of the same Super LumiNova and flush in the dial. Unlike the roman numerals and minutes that stick out. This was done so to minimise the hight/level difference between the round/dot- indexes and the date display.

There is no doubt that the bar was initially set very hi with the CronotempVs I by L.U.Chopard, with the CronotempVs 2 by Speake-Marin has raised the bar to a whole new level. A tough act to follow…

This is the first time a dial has be fabricated in such a manner. The multiple layered dial construction is complex and had to be developed specifically in order to be able to manufacture this dial. The Super LumiNova indexes are filled inside a unique mould method in order to be able to obtain such dramatic results. The performance of the Super LumiNova is quite astounding. A unique feature is the luminescent date disk. Although the date is unreadable at night, there is an explanation as to this feature. The reason for the luminescent date disk is to keep the balance of the dial design in complete darkness. A standard non-luminescent disk would show a “gap” at the 2 o’clock index.

As homage to this being the “CronotempVs II” the date has been placed in the 2 o’clock position mimicking an index to keep the original Spirit design. The second day of the month has been spelled in roman numerals like the dial while all other days of the month are in classic arabic numerals.

The back has been labeled “CW” meaning “Club Watch” and personalised with each club member’s number. We have taken advantage of the finishings and design of already present models inside the Speake-Marin collection. The blue rotor with its stunning outward angles is one of the most outstanding features of this piece.

The “pin” of the ardillon buckle has been PVDed in blue to match the rotor. From a distance it is a regular Spirit. The differences should only be apparent upon closer inspection.

The standard box has been replaced with a wallet/traveling pouch that serves the owner beyond a classic box that collects dust in a closet.

CronotempVs 1 by «L.U.Chopard»

Although many are familiar with Chopard but little is known of L.U.C as a high-end watch maker. In car terms L.U.C is to Chopard what “AMG” is to Mercedes Benz or “Scuderia” to Ferrari. A small and very exclusive club within a larger company that takes things further to satisfy their more demanding customers.

For some time now it has become an absolute “must” amongst watch enthusiasts to be a “manufacture”. L.U.C is indeed one of those that can boast they have the much acclaimed title. For all those that think this to be most important note that in some cases they go well beyond that. L.U.C/Chopard not only conceive and manufacture their own movements but also make their own cases/bracelets. This process begins with the smelting their own metal formulas to create different gold types. L.U.C is a very well kept secrets amongst those that appreciate high-end and traditional horological values. Like many “Haute Horlogerie” power houses, the L.U.C Manufacture is located in one of the most traditional Swiss Horological towns in the Vallée du Joux, Le Locle. That fact alone should clarify any doubts about the legitimacy of their products.

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