Mes: septiembre 2017

L.U.C XPS

Less is more

With new dials and a case featuring finely reworked details, the evolution of the L.U.C XPS collection subtly asserts itself as purer and more refined ever. Its understated elegance is based on the finishing and flair for detail typical of the L.U.C collection. A number of variations on materials and colours make the new L.U.C XPS a collection from which each modern gentleman can select exactly the right model in accordance with his personal style.

The L.U.C XPS has always been a wristworn paragon of chic understatement, an indispensable complement to a well-cut and nicely fitted pinstriped suit or a seven-fold silk tie. While this naturally elegant watch continues to evolve, its refinement, its attitude and its relevance remain intact.

The first L.U.C XP model was launched by the Manufacture in 2006. It already displayed all the distinctive features of the L.U.C XPS: an ultra-slim case, a movement with automatic winding via a micro-rotor and a generous power reserve, as well as an exceptionally elegant dial and a distinguished appearance. This pillar of the L.U.C collection has been repeatedly interpreted through new versions, all infused with the elegance of the great Chopard chronometers. Ten years after the first L.U.C XP watch, the new L.U.C XPS is now purer and more refined than ever.

Timeless style for the modern gentleman
Elegance is the ability to adapt to circumstances with natural poise and instinctive panache. To appear to one’s best advantage whatever the occasion or the dress code. The L.U.C XPS thus becomes an indispensable ally for all men of taste. It is expressed through a complete range of colours and materials. The stainless steel version exudes the elegance of the fundamental colours of the masculine wardrobe. The grey of its case is matched by its grained white dial. The more precious and yet subtly restrained 18-carat white gold L.U.C XPS frames a black dial; while the warmly glowing 18-carat rose gold version is offset by a silver-toned dial. Finally, the L.U.C XPS in 950 platinum features a blue dial and bears the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark.

The L.U.C XPS remains true to its style and its fit. It continues to measure 40 mm in diameter and 7.2 mm thick, an ideally ergonomic ratio corresponding to ideal proportions. Its lugs have been slightly trimmed down to ensure an even more comfortable feel, enabling it to sit even more smoothly and naturally on the wrist. Its sapphire crystal has been gently domed to ensure it slips smoothly under a shirt sleeve and accentuates the softness of its lines.

Signature features of the L.U.C collection
The new L.U.C XPS models adopt the L.U.C signature finishing for the first time, while their dial takes on new textures: finely grained for the stainless steel version, and sunburst for the gold variations. The slender rays of light are centred on the logo appearing beneath the two applied Arabic numerals expressing the cardinal-point status of the 12 o’clock indication.

Classic Dauphine-type hands are replaced here by the fusée Dauphine-type hands that are an integral part of the L.U.C collection design codes. Inspired by the 1930s, these highly structured three-dimensional iterations lend a discreetly sophisticated touch to the L.U.C XPS. Its hour-markers are shaped like raised and facetted arrows. The case finishing has also evolved and is now satin-brushed, striking a pleasing contrast with a rounded polished bezel. Finally, the inscription “Chronometer” appears under the logo in order to affirm both the rank and the vocation of Chopard Manufacture movements.

 

Mechanical nobility
The L.U.C XPS models are powered by movements that are automatically wound by a micro-rotor, whose high inertia optimises efficiency and guarantees between 58 and 65 hours of operation depending on the model. The L.U.C XPS stainless steel models are equipped with the 96.50-L variation, while the 18-carat gold versions feature Calibre 96.12-L with an engraved 22-carat solid gold rotor. Platinum L.U.C XPS watches are driven by Calibre 96.01-L, also equipped with a gold rotor, and above all bearing the prestigious “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark certifying the excellence of its finishing, as well as that of the watch as a whole.

 

 

Within the XPS letters composing its name, the “S” refers to the small seconds at 6 o’clock. The latter is required by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and enables it to read off the precision of the movements submitted for certification. All the L.U.C XPS models, as well as all L.U.C watches equipped with this hand, are inspected and approved by this official body, which awards the much-coveted chronometer title. Sweeping steadily around the dial, it epitomises that most elementary expression of elegance, regarded as the politeness of princes: punctuality.

Hublot «Techframe Ferrari 70 years»​

ARTE ESTRUCTURADO

La productiva asociación entre Hublot y Ferrari abre una nueva etapa este año con la primera referencia diseñada en los estudios de donde salen los míticos deportivos del Cavallino Rampante. Es la primera vez que Ferrari diseña un reloj y este hecho excepcional se debe a la celebración de su septuagésimo aniversario.

Aquí no hablamos de versiones de relojes ya conocidos a los que se ha cambiado la esfera o añadido un pequeño adorno: todo el reloj es completamente nuevo y ha sido creado según los mismos criterios que sigue Ferrari en sus coches, esto es, un diseño que parte del motor y se ‘expande’ al exterior formando una estructura similar al chasis de un coche. El resultado es espectacular en lo estético a la vez que muy cómodo y ligero.

Está disponible en titanio, King Gold (la aleación de oro rosa exclusiva de Hublot) y PEEK carbon, en edición limitada de 70 piezas para cada una de las versiones.

CAJA
Titanio, King Gold o PEEK Carbon. 45 mm. 14,80mm de grosor. Cristal de zafiro antirreflejos en ambos lados. Fondo transparente. Hermético hasta 30 metros.

MOVIMIENTO
Mecánico de cuerda automática. Calibre HUB6311. 253 componentes. Reserva de marcha de 115 horas. Frecuencia de 21.600 alternancias a la hora.

FUNCIONES
Horas y minutos. Cronógrafo

ESFERA
Zafiro con barniz negro mate. Agujas esqueletadas en acabado satinado y tratamiento luminiscente. Contador independiente de segundos del cronógrafo a las 3 horas. Tourbillon volante a las 7 horas.

PULSERA
Caucho negro con sistema de cambio rápido. Cierre desplegable de titanio o King Gold.

PRECIO
125.000 euros (Versión titanio).

L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru

The sensuality of Haute Horlogerie according to Chopard
A new “tonneau” Chronometer

This year, Chopard is enriching its range with a “form” chronometer in 18-carat rose gold featuring pronounced curves conceived in the same manner as an exceptional wine and relying on the finest watchmaking skills cultivated by Chopard. Ultra-slim, beautifully rounded and supremely elegant, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is the only tonneau shape watch wound by an automatic movement. It’s a nod to the pocket watches created by Louis-Ulysse Chopard. Just as a Grand Cru wine is classified and certified, its excellent craftsmanship is attested by the “Poinçon de Genève” quality hallmark. Unique in many respects, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is intended for distinguished men who collect both great wines and exceptional pieces: the ultimate modern epicurean.

Form follows function*
Elegance implies the peak of refinement, an ideal match between form and function. This demanding approach picked up in the design of the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru makes this watch a perfect fit on the wrist. It was conceptualised by Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele in the same way as a great vintage showcasing the finest expertise Chopard has to offer. In lign with the first L.U.C Tonneau watch released in 2001, it’s the only tonneau shape watch to be equipped tih an automatic movement with micro-rotor winding. The understated elegance of its dial, its nicely balanced proportions, the finishing of its case and movement, make it a must-have for the modern epicurean gentleman.
*Louis Sullivan

An elegant legacy
Four years after the launch of the L.U.C 1963, Chopard presents a fresh interpretation following this signature line. The L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru pays tribute to the historical pocket watches that forged the renown of the Maison founded by Louis-Ulysse Chopard in 1860. It is thus endowed with authentic emotionally charged elements. It picks up the pure white porcelain type dial bearing black Roman numerals. Its minute track follows the central part of the dial and the small seconds at 6 o’clock compose an ensemble distinguished by a sense of nuance and equilibrium. This noble lineage makes the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru an authentic vintage Haute Horlogerie creation that has been treated with all due respect by Chopard Manufacture.
Poinçon de Genève certified, this chronometer is a symbol of respect for the fine craftsmanship and the fundamentals of traditional watchmaking as exercised by the Geneva-based Maison. It is in this spirit that Chopard has designed this watch with its highly distinctive shape reminiscent of the oak barrels from the forests of Bertrange, Jupille and Tronçais, which transform great vintages into exceptional wines.

The result of watchmaking mastery
The tonneau is a traditional shape of watch case that requires particular mastery. Part rectangle, part circle, the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru is less strict than the former and every bit as gentle as the latter. The maximum width of the case is almost equivalent to its height, thus ensuring a generously ample dial. The remarkable care lavished on the design ensures that the L.U.C Heritage Grand Gru exudes authentic masculine sensuality.

The case and crystal of the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru are domed, while the case is ultra-thin with a maximum thickness of 7.75 mm close to that of the L.U.C XPS models. Its curves procure authentic comfort on the wrist.

The 97.01-L calibre: a worldwide exclusivity
This slenderness begins inside the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru, which houses the 3.3 mm thick calibre 97.01-L. It is one of the rare “form” movements to be housed in a “form” case. It is adorned with the most advanced finishing performed in the Manufacture: the bevelling, polishing, circular graining and Côtes de Genève meet the high demands of the Poinçon de Genève criteria.

Automatic winding is accomplished by an engraved 22-carat gold micro-rotor, driving two stacked barrels based on Chopard’s patented Twin® technology. Together, they guarantee 65 hours of running time and supply sufficiently constant energy to enable calibre 97.01-L to beat with chronometer-worthy precision. In accordance with the choice of Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) has certified the operation of all the 97.01-L calibres equipping the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru. Elegance is also a commitment to technical and aesthetic quality: an intrinsic quality of the watches in the L.U.C collection.

The 1926 Montblanc Heritage Collection

Vintage Elegance With The Passing Of Time: Introducing The 1926 Montblanc Heritage Collection

Montblanc introduces its first full collection in vegetable tanned leather for today’s sophisticated wanderer

For the urban nomad, travel is more than just getting from one destination to another. It’s about discovering new places and unforgettable experiences both near and far. Pairing fine craftsmanship with a distinctively vintage look, 1926 Montblanc Heritage is a new original collection of leather pieces created for the inspired traveller who seeks stylish yet durable everyday companions. With its earthy desert hues the design of the new collection evokes the vintage elegance of safari travel and the exploration of distant lands and cultures. For the first time, Montblanc has crafted a whole collection in vegetable tanned leather treated in the great Tuscan tradition to give each piece its rich dark brown aging patina and worn-in charm. The bright red printed lining that contrasts with the leather exterior is inspired by the vibrant fabrics worn by the regal Maasai tribe. A nod to the Maison’s tradition of leather craftsmanship, 1926 is the year Montblanc started its own journey into the world of leather. Beyond its name, the vintage attitude of Heritage is reflected in every design detail from the antique gold colour finishing of the metal fittings or the bridge and clasp closing systems to the Montblanc Heritage logo that appears on each of the twenty bags, wallets and leather accessories that make up the collection.

1926 Montblanc Heritage is characterized by the beauty of its organically treated leather, returning to one of the oldest and most intricate tanning processes. Enhancing the look, touch and smell of the leather, the use of vegetable tannins extracted from barks and other plant tissues preserve the natural appearance of the leather, with its own shades of grain, causing one skin to vary from another. The emollients used to nurture the leather give it its distinct perfume. With the passing of time, the colour changes only to enhance the vintage look of each piece and evolves to become truly personalized to its life companion.

Whether a journey to a far distant place, a brief trip from one meeting to the next, or a leisurely excursion across town, each 1926 Montblanc Heritage piece is defined by its versatility, adapting to the needs of its owner. Designed to conveniently carry documents and portable technology to work, a retro-style Single Gusset Briefcase features a two- buckle closure and adjustable shoulder strap. Simple and smart, a Document Case with zip closure is an elegant piece that provides storage compartments for a laptop, papers and stationery. The two leather straps and metallic bridge closure of the Portfolio create the retro look that is a defining characteristic of 1926 Montblanc Heritage. Whether a trip to the gym or a business meeting, an assortment of city bags are designed to give the urban nomad with chic and stylish ways to carry personal items or technology around town. A Messenger, Reporter Bag or Small Backpack feature the distinctive metal buckle with the signature antique gold finishing and adjustable shoulder straps to give the everyday adventurer complete comfort. The weekend escape has never been so stylish with a large Duffle Bag in the rich brown leather with subtle detailing including decorative leather loops and studs. The detachable front pocket has multiple uses, as a single clutch bag or as belt bag. A Large Backpack with a drawstring closure and buckles, as well as a Double Messenger with ample storage and multiple interior pockets can be made-to-order, available exclusively upon request.

The design codes of 1926 Heritage have been applied to the selection of small leather goods including wallets, credit card holders and business card holders. The dark brown vegetable tanned leather contrasts with vibrant red Maasai-inspired lining inside the accessories, embellished with an embossed line on edges and the antique gold finishes of the hardware. A new type of closure features a press button with a clasp. For the intrepid traveller, the collection includes a Passport Holder, a Multi-currency Pouch for storing up to four currencies in four zipped compartments and a key fob for carrying multiple keys.

Fine stationary has also been given the Heritage treatment with a notebook handcrafted in the finest vegetable tanned leather featuring gold cut paper edges inspired by the antiqued gold fittings of the collection,

Every step of the way, the 1926 Montblanc Heritage collection inspires the traveller with vintage elegance. Leaning on the long traditions of Tuscan leather expertise, each piece is the expression of fine craftsmanship, a travel companion to accompany the modern explorer through the journey of life.

The new 1926 Montblanc Heritage Collection is available from September 2017 at Montblanc boutiques worldwide.

Officine Panerai «Luminor Due»

Una nueva caja entra en la historia de officine Panerai, fielmente inspirada en las líneas del clásico luminor de la década de 1950 Pero rediseñada con sutileza.

La nueva colección LUMINOR DUE abre un capítulo en la historia de Panerai. Es el resultado del desafío que han superado con éxito los diseñadores e ingenieros de la manufactura Panerai para ofrecer a los entusiastas de la marca una nueva interpretación del emblemático Luminor. Fiel a la estética original pero con funciones modernas, se ha conseguido reducir el grosor de la caja hasta en un 40% en algunos modelos en comparación con el histórico.

Las líneas de LUMINOR DUE se inspiran en la caja Luminor 1950, que representa la culminación de las creaciones de Panerai realizadas para la Armada italiana entre las décadas de 1930 y 1950. Los ingredientes son conocidos para todos los entendidos de la relojería de alta calidad: robusta caja cuadrangular, amplia esfera rodeada por el bisel, asas firmemente integradas y dispositivo en forma de puente que sella la corona con una palanca y la protege de golpes accidentales. Todos los elementos pertenecen a la historia de la marca y se han rediseñado ligeramente para destacar la versatilidad de un reloj que es la síntesis perfecta de espíritu deportivo e idoneidad para cualquier ocasión, una combinación de diseño distintivo y sofisticada técnica de relojería.

LUMINOR DUE 3 DAYS – 42mm
calibre de cUerda manUal P.1000 con reserva de marcha de tres días y caja lUminor dUe de solamente 10,5 mm de grosor. disPonible en acero o en Una elegante versión en oro rojo con el movimiento delicadamente esqUeletizado.

Con un grosor de solo 10,5 mm, la caja Luminor del nuevo Luminor Due 3 Days es la más delgada jamás creada. El notable esfuerzo de los diseñadores de Panerai se aprecia en la reducción del grosor de casi un 40% en comparación con diversos modelos de la colección Luminor 1950 del mismo diámetro. Esta reducción del grosor – y del peso – está destinada a aquellos que desean disfrutar de la identidad distintiva de un reloj Panerai mientras disfrutan de una experiencia diferente en su muñeca. Una vez más el diseño italiano y la maestría técnica de la relojería suiza se han unido para reinterpretar la historia de una marca única en el panorama de la relojería deportiva internacional de alta calidad.

Disponible en acero inoxidable AISI 316L o en una elegante versión en oro rojo, la caja del nuevo Luminor Due 3 Days tiene 42 mm de diámetro e incorpora el clásico dispositivo en forma de puente con palanca de sellado para proteger la corona. Además, todos los componentes llevan un acabado pulido. El cristal zafiro revela la clásica esfera minimalista Panerai con números e índices horarios en forma de barra y la esfera del segundero pequeño a las 9h. Negra en la versión de acero y gris antracita en la de oro, la clásica esfera tipo sándwich muestra la hora con extrema claridad y se ve realzada por el acabado satiné soleil.

El fondo del nuevo Luminor Due 3 Days es transparente para que pueda admirarse el calibre de cuerda manual P.1000. En el modelo de oro rojo, este calibre se presenta por primera vez en la sofisticada versión P.1000/10 esqueletizada. Su gran puente satinado, que protege más de la mitad de la superficie del calibre, ha sido diseñado para que muestre parte del mecanismo, incluidos dos barriletes que proporcionan la reserva de marcha de tres días. En ambas versiones el volante (que oscila a 28.800 vibraciones por hora) está sujeto por un puente con soportes dobles para garantizar la máxima seguridad y estabilidad. El movimiento contiene también el dispositivo que detiene el volante y pone a cero el segundero al ajustar la hora (reinicio del segundero) para la perfecta sincronización del reloj con una señal horaria de referencia.

El Luminor Due 3 Days se entrega con una correa de aligátor negra, tanto en versión de acero (PAM00676) como en versión de oro rojo (PAM00677). Es hermético hasta 3 bar (unos 30 metros).

PANERAI LUMINOR DUE

Konstantin Chaykin​ «Moscow Computus Clock»

The most complicated clock ever built in Russia

Russian inventor and independent watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin, member Academy of independent watchmakers (AHCI, Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants), presents in BaselWorld-2017 his latest masterpiece – supercomplication astronomical Moscow Computus Clock. To say that mechanics developed by Konstantin Chaykin is impressive – it is nothing to say. Movement of incredible complexity is composed of 2,506 parts, it has 4 dials and powers 26 complications and indications.

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No clock of a comparable level of complexity was ever produced in Russia, it took no less than two years to create conception, develop and assemble movement and build artisanal semi precious stones case.

The complexity of Moscow Computus Clock is obvious: visually you will easily find indication of time in hours and minutes, Orthodox Easter date, perpetual calendar with 4-digits year indicator and power reserve indicator, orbital moon-phase indicator combined with worldtime function, unique analemma dial combined with indication of sunrise and sunset time in Moscow, and duration of day and night, dial with star-map in Moscow, sidereal time, equation of time, seasons and tourbillon used as small seconds hand. The movement runs for 10 days, it is equipped with special visual indication for last two days of power reserve. There is one more – hidden – treasure, the clock incorporates acoustical reminder of critically low level of power reserve. Special gong rings once every two minutes when there is just one day of power reserve left.

Just a bit of history
Computus complication – mechanism allowing automatic calculation of the date of Ester based on calendar, and moon-phase cycles – is the rarest and one of the most elaborated horological function. The list of watchmakers that had built clockwork equipped with Computus is extremely short list meaning seven or even eight centuries of mechanical horology development: Giovanni Dondi dell’Orologio (Italy), 14th century, who developed Computus for Astrarium, supercomplicated astronomical clock he made; Jean-Baptiste Schwilgué (France), 19th century, the author of the third astronomical clock of Strasbourg Cathedral; Auguste-Lucien Vérité (France), 19th century, who built astronomical clocks for St. Jean Cathedral in Besançon and Cathedral of Beauvais, both with Computus; Louis Zimmer (Belgium), Jens Olsen (Denmark), Frédéric Klinghammer (France) and Paul Pouvillon (France) created astronomical clocks with Computus in 20th century. Konstantin Chaykin had developed algorithm and automatic counting mechanism for Computus intended for display Orthodox Easter date, the first in the history of watchmaking, in 2007 (Resurrection clock), further developed for Northern Computus Clock in 2015 and now for Moscow Computus Clock.

So, what’s it, Moscow Computus Clock?
At first, we should accept that it is Orthodox Computus mechanism, the most complicated mechanical device designed just for one hand showing Easter date, and in fact the rest clockwork was build around it, even it represents the rest 25 functions of 26 in total. Computus mechanism alone takes no less than three hundred parts, including three stepped cams and differential gear calculated to perfectly operate until the year 9999, final year for Konstantin Chaykin’s algorithm, when additional adjustment will be necessary.

Computus mechanism sleeps throughout the year, and wakes up just ten minutes prior to the start of new year. It is one of the most astonishing horological function lasting couple of minutes of 525,600 minutes composing a year: Easter hand leaves Easter date of the previous year, goes deep to the left and then arises, slowly approaching Easter date of the new coming year. The mission is completed. But the story continues. There are 25 functions more, and surely one of the most spectacular is unique analemma dial. “I have been thinking about the analemma complication for 9 years”, notes Konstantin Chaykin. “For all these years, no matter what I had been working on, I kept the dream to incorporate intriguing astronomical phenomenon into clock. During 9 years, I invented several variations of analemma mechanism, and the most elegant technical solution I have decided to put into Moscow Computus Clock”. The analemma dial is really intriguing, it shows exact position of Sun in the sky if you will capture it in course of the year every day in the same moment if local time, i.e. at 12:00. This complication isn’t rare. In real it is unique because Konstantin Chaykin was the first who invented it and used for the first time in Moscow Computus Clock.

Finally we should mention one-minute tourbillon, properly set in clock in vertical position, very important part of the movement simply because Konstantin Chaykin had started with this complication his career in watchmaking art. The first tourbillon clock he built in 2004.

Artisanal appearance of Moscow Computus Clock
The supercomplicated movement of Moscow Computus Clock was set into nearly complicated artisanal case made with extensive use of semiprecious stones and composed of more than 2,500 parts carved from stone. The starting point of clock design was St Basil’s Cathedral, the pearl of Russian architecture and the world’s well known symbol of Moscow. The detailed work on the case of the clock took months of work of one of the best Russian artisan of stone mosaic. The case is covered with pieces of plenty of precious and semi-precious minerals and stones. Tricky stone setting technique means that artisan could elaborate just a few pieces of stone decoration a day, as every detail required six to seven finishing touches after each facet was perfectly formed and polished.

URWERK: Remembering the EMC «Time Hunter»

Time: it’s by far the most valuable resource we have, so it’s worth measuring accurately. But no matter how well made or how well-regulated a wristwatch is, the unique activities and environments of individual owners can detrimentally affect chronometric performance. The new EMC enables its wearer to both monitor the health (amplitude) of the watch and its precision as worn on the wrist. Accuracy can then be easily adjusted for each owner’s lifestyle. Interactivity is at the heart of the EMC concept and is the real added value of the precision watch.

EMC “Time Hunter” is a fully 100% mechanical watch with electronically enhanced indications. It launches in two limited editions of 15 pieces each: one in natural titanium/steel and one with a military green ceramic-coated titanium/steel case.

EMC “Time Hunter” features a highly legible time display with central hours and minutes indicated with high-contrast black hands enhanced with bright white Super-LumiNova. A rotating disk displaying seconds at 1 o’clock is visually balanced by the power reserve indicator at its antipode at 7 o’clock. The Super-LumiNova also ensures high legibility at night as it glows in blue and white.

The dial in the top left corner at 10 o’clock displays the two EMC electronic indications: timekeeping precision to +/- 15 seconds per day and the amplitude of the balance. Turning EMC over reveals the fully in-house movement with integrated circuit board (the EMC ‘brain’), the top of one of the two mainspring barrels near the crown, and the top of the balance wheel and optical sensor on the winding handle side.

What benefit does EMC “Time Hunter” offer to its wearer?
When a watch is regulated (its precision tested and adjusted) by the watchmaker before it is sold, it is usually placed on a continually rotating arm in a fairly temperature-stable room. The rotating arm ensures that the watch spends fairly equal time all positions. But the timing of a mechanical watch changes slightly in each position as well as with changes in temperature. So in the real world of a watch on the wrist, how long it spends in each position (on average) will depend on the wearer’s activities: work, leisure, and how long each day it is actually worn. Two different people wearing the same watch for a week will find that its accuracy differs because the watch will have experienced different positions in different activities over the week.

EMC enables the wearer to note how many seconds the watch gains or loses in a week (or month), to adjust the precision, and then test that precision using the EMC function to confirm that the adjustment is correct. This extra functionality allows EMC is be fine-tuned to be as precise as possible for a specific wearer’s lifestyle and even to evolve with any changes.

How it works
The fold-out crank handle is first wound to generate power for the EMC indications,– there are no batteries – which is then stored in a super capacitor. After winding, a hand indicates either δ (processing underway) or P (not enough power). The EMC hand will then first indicate the movement’s precision to +/- 15 seconds per day for a few seconds, followed by the amplitude of the balance, the latter being a good indicator of the health of a movement and if it requires servicing. As well as these two indications, a LED on the precision display between -5 and -15 seconds will shine either green for “all okay,” or red if one or both of the EMC indications fall outside acceptable parameters.
The precision of the movement can then be simply adjusted faster or slower by turning the screw on the back of the watch. This allows the user to adjust the time to suit their own lifestyle.

What is amplitude and why does EMC measure amplitude?
While the concept of precision (as in how many seconds a day a watch is running fast or slow) is fairly easy to understand, amplitude of the balance is less obvious. The precision of a grandfather clock is regulated by a pendulum swinging back and forth, and the precision of a wristwatch is regulated by a balance wheel with a hairspring inside oscillating back and forth. «Amplitude» is how far in degrees the pendulum or the balance wheel moves through each oscillation.

While in theory both pendulums and balance wheels should be isochronous at all amplitudes, i.e. each oscillation should take exactly the same time whether swinging through a small or large distance, in practice the balance in most wristwatch movements should oscillate with an amplitude between 220° and 280° for maximum efficiency. Because the tiny balance wheel has relatively low mass and oscillates so quickly (back and forth four times each second), the slightest degradation in the lubricating oil of the balance staff (axel) manifests in lower amplitude. So balance amplitude is a good indicator for a movement being «healthy» or needing service.

The balance is the very «heart» of nearly every mechanical watch movement. And as with our own heart, the strength of its beat (amplitude) and the regularity of its beat (precision) are good indicators of health. «As a watchmaker, I am quite proud of URWERK developing, manufacturing, and regulating our own balance wheel for EMC as very few brands actually make and regulate their own balances and they really are the heart of mechanical movements,» explains URWERK’s co-founding master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner.

PRESS RELEASE: EMC_TimeHunter

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebra la «74a edición de la Mostra de Venecia»

Jaeger-LeCoultre celebra la 74a edición de la Mostra de Venecia con tres ediciones limitadas de la colección Rendez-Vous

En el marco del 74° Festival Internacional de Cine de la Bienal de Venecia, la Manufactura Jaeger-LeCoultre, que colabora estrechamente con la Mostra desde hace más de 12 años, se siente honrada de presentar una serie artística exclusiva de relojes Rendez-Vous. La colección Rendez-Vous siempre ha estado asociada, desde su lanzamiento en 2012, al universo del cine. Este año, una vez más, la atmósfera romántica de la Serenissima se presta maravillosamente a la presentación de estos modelos para mujer. Los relojes Rendez-Vous Sonatina, últimas piezas maestras del taller de oficios exclusivos de la Grande Maison, expresan tres etapas distintas del enamoramiento: la seducción, el romance y el amor. Cada una está editada en una serie limitada de ocho ejemplares.

Una demostración poética de todos los conocimientos especializados de Jaeger-LeCoultre
Para crear estas tres series limitadas, la Manufactura ha necesitado desplegar sus conocimientos más emblemáticos, ofreciendo así a los relojeros y a los artesanos del taller de oficios exclusivos e inauditos la libertad de dar rienda suelta a su arte.

El Rendez-Vous Sonatina Large en oro rosa, recién incorporado a la línea femenina de la Grande Maison, está dotado de complicaciones dedicadas a las grandes soñadoras. Una estrella, ajustable por la corona y situada a la altura de las 2 h, indica la próxima cita mediante un delicado tintineo. ¿Acaso se trata de la próxima cita con el ser amado? Cual susurro, este sonido, que recuerda la hora de la cita, se completa con otra complicación: la indicación día/noche. Albergados a la altura de las 6 h, en una apertura que adopta la forma de las flores pintadas en la esfera, la luna y el sol se persiguen en un incesante ballet que evoca el sueño amoroso diurno y nocturno.

La majestuosa labor del taller de oficios artísticos exclusivos e inauditos
El ingenio de los relojeros de Jaeger-LeCoultre se conjuga maravillosamente con la delicada labor artística de los artesanos que trabajan en el taller de oficios exclusivos e inauditos. La elaboración de estas piezas requiere la práctica de tres oficios: el guilloché, la pintura sobre nácar y el engaste.

La esfera está compuesta por una pieza de nácar finamente guilloché a mano sobre toda su superficie y cubierta de una capa de pintura ligeramente tintada que ofrece graciosos reflejos tornasolados. Por primera vez, los artesanos de la Manufactura también han realizado a mano una pintura en miniatura sobre el nácar. El resultado es exquisito y sutil, y los detalles son tan vibrantes que parecen reales. Algunas partes de la pintura, como las aves, están recubiertas con una capa de laca transparente para ofrecer un efecto de profundidad y jugar con la materia. Cada una de las esferas alberga una obra de arte en miniatura con su propia personalidad, fruto de la inspiración artística renovada que emana de cada pincelada del artista del taller de oficios exclusivos e inauditos. En una misma serie de ocho piezas, cada esfera es única. Una labor artística que uno no se cansa de admirar.

En cuanto al artesano engastador, también sublima cada pieza con su arte. El bisel está ornamentado con diamantes de talla brillante que destacan el trabajo poético de la esfera. Sobre el realce, encima de los dígitos emblemáticos de la colección Rendez-Vous, discurre una línea de estas gemas eternas, que hace eco con la que rodea delicadamente la pintura central de la esfera. Para terminar de vestir esta verdadera joya relojera, el engastador también alberga diamantes a cada lado de la caja. Una atención que otorga, desde cualquier ángulo, una gran importancia al sueño.

Una oda a las distintas edades del amor
Cada cuadro representado en estas piezas es una creación original de Jaeger-LeCoultre. La primera etapa de este recorrido amoroso es la pieza Rendez-Vous Sonatina “Séduction”. El descubrimiento del otro en las primeras y emocionantes citas es un momento muy importante en las grandes películas, y está encarnado aquí por dos golondrinas que revolotean sobre un campo de lavandas. Estos pájaros, símbolo de libertad y felicidad, parecen prestarse a un ballet apasionado sobre un cielo nacarado guilloché. El nácar presenta matices azules y violetas, como el cielo durante el crepúsculo. Cada detalle del ave está minuciosamente pintado, y la labor del artista para reproducir las plumas de las alas desplegadas nos invita a soñar. En el corazón de las flores, de un profundo color lavanda, las miradas descubren una apertura en forma de flor sobre la indicación día/noche. Como una ventana al tiempo, que no vemos pasar cuando nos enamoramos…

Después de la seducción viene el romance. Durante estos momentos tan especiales el corazón está lleno de la imagen del ser amado. En el Rendez-Vous Sonatina “Romance”, este estado de ensueño constante está representado por un martín pescador posado sobre la rama de un cerezo en flor. Símbolo de paz y prosperidad, el martín pescador, dotado de un plumaje azul y naranja, parece olvidar el tiempo. El cerezo en flor, que se asocia a momentos importantes de la vida como los encuentros, está maravillosamente pintado con un degradado de matices en rosa y blanco. La pintura de color rosa pálido sobre el nácar guilloché destaca aún más la intensidad de los colores de los pétalos.

El último modelo de estas series limitadas, el Rendez-Vous Sonatina “Amour”, representa el estado de gracia del amor. Dos urracas que lucen un espléndido degradado de verdes, del turquesa al verde agua, vuelan en la misma dirección, sobre unas peonias. Estas aves, símbolo de la felicidad, parecen regocijarse al unísono en su viaje en pareja. Las peonias, que por lo general simbolizan la riqueza y el honor, también encarnan el romanticismo y se consideran un presagio de buena fortuna y de una unión feliz. Sabiamente elaborada, la armoniosa mezcla de verdes, en el conjunto de la esfera, ofrece una gran dulzura a este modelo tan cargado de poesía.

Maravillosas y llenas de delicadeza, estas últimas creaciones no solo desvelan el virtuosismo con el que los artesanos dominan el arte y las técnicas que se practican en los talleres de oficios artísticos exclusivos e inauditos de Jaeger-LeCoultre, sino que recuerdan a cada mujer la fuerza del amor. Con un Rendez-Vous ceñido a su muñeca, la mujer, enaltecida por la belleza de su joya, se siente protagonista de su vida y de sus emociones.

Rebellion «WEAP-ONE»

Rebellion Timepieces, a Swiss watchmaker of unique timepieces inspired by motorsport, released two new watches during Baselworld’s press day: The Weap-One and the Twenty-One. The Weap-One is a unique piece inspired by race car suspension. It features a never-before-seen tourbillon movement with a non-stationary horizontal axis and is housed in a detachable, sapphire glass tube. In contrast, the Twenty-One is a classic-car inspired piece which features a Rebellion’s first in-house GMT movement, a two-spoke steering-wheel design and a price tag set to target a new customer segment.

WEAP-ONE
The new Weap-One (pronounced similar to weapon) features a never-before-seen, asymmetrical, 60-second flying tourbillon movement. Suspended between the hour and minute rollers, the tourbillon is attached to two plates. Each plate rotates at a different speed, resulting in a non-stationary horizontal axis – the first of its kind. Designed by Fabrice Gonet and made in collaboration with Concepto, the movement is housed in a detachable sapphire crystal tube which offers maximum viewing and countless mounting options.

Integrated into the Weap-One are several pieces of racing technology. Like the wheels of a race car, the rollers and tourbillon-mounted plates rotate at varying speeds. To compensate for this difference in speeds, the movement was developed with two differentials modeled after those found in race car suspensions. Ten ball bearings have replaced jewels in this piece for additional reduction in rotational friction as well as radial and axil loads.

Two rollers read the time- hours on the left and minutes on the right. The numbers and indexes are treated with Super-LumiNova® to ensure ease of readability day or night. Finishing the piece is a dual crown system – mounted on either side of the movement and fashioned after wheel nuts – the left sets the time while the right winds the 60-hour power reserve.

Es Revellar Art Resort. Fusión perfecta entre arte gastronomía

 

Cuando crees que ya no es posible encontrar sitios en donde, ya no solo la cocina si no también el entorno, te puedan sorprender llega hasta mis oídos que existe un lugar en Campos (Mallorca) que fusiona el arte con una interesante oferta gastronómica. Desarrollado a partir de una posesión de más de seiscientos años en donde tienes a tu alcance una exposición de arte integrada en el entorno de los jardines, los edificios y las habitaciones, mi visita a Es Revellar Art Resort ha alimentado mis esperanzas de encontrar sitios que todavía me puedan sorprender.

En palabras de su Directora, Cristina de Cáceres, Es Revellar no es un agroturismo, si no un Museo con dieciséis habitaciones y razón no le falta. Es el único resort que ofrece este concepto en España y tan solo existen siete en el mundo. La oferta de visita guiada y cena me pareció una experiencia más que recomendable. Desde una capilla del siglo XIX en cuyo interior podemos encontrar desde un incunable del siglo V-VI d.C. pasando por confesionarios portátiles, uno mudéjar y otro barroco, un mueble Vargas del siglo XVI, un cuadro de Juana de Óvidos de 1.640, una natividad de Amberes del siglo XVI, una «Madona» italiana del siglo XV, una tabla holandesa del siglo XIII hasta un un cuadro de la escuela de El Greco. No menos destacables son sus ocho lagos integrados en sus jardines rodeados de fuentes o la colección de arte y antropología africanos más potente que he visto en muchos años, todo resulta increíble. Resulta también interesante la propuesta de Land Art que acaba creando una sensación que va del desconcierto a la sorpresa. Una explosión sensorial que acaba ante un capitel romano del siglo III d.C. con la imagen de Rómulo y Remo para finalizar el tour. Si todo esto resulta sorprendente no lo es menos lo que para mi representa el espacio con más valor artístico de todo el complejo. Una sala dedicada a Picasso y sobre la que no voy a dar detalles para no robarle la sensación de sorpresa a los lectores de esta crónica que se decidan a hacer una visita gastro-artística a Es Revellar.

El corolario a la visita lo pone una cena en el restaurante “La cocinad el huerto”, con una interesante propuesta del chef Tolo Juliá en donde, por encima de todo, prima el trato exquisito que le da a la materia prima. Producto local, de mercado incluso de su propia huerta muy bien tratado y convertido en un menú degustación formado por un aperitivo en dos tiempos y dos platos principales con dos opciones de elección en cada uno de ellos. Nada de títulos rimbombantes ni emplatados sofisticados, cocina humilde pero muy trabajada cuyo valor aumenta con las vistas al gran mural de 86 metros de largo del artista Jesús Cánovas, con una visión contemporánea de algunos de los mitos de la Grecia clásica más signifcativos tales como el Mito de Prometeo, las tres Gracias, el Olimpo, la puerta del Olimpo, Caballo de Troya entre otros.

Un refrescante chupito de gazpacho de cereza precedió a los dos aperitivos, higos con jamón ibérico y tataki de atún con verduras.

La combinación de sabor de los higos y el jamón lo convierten en una plato ideal para este tiempo al igual que las verduritas crue que acompañaron al atún.

Como entrantes dos interesantes propuestas de las que, pese a la frescura y calidad del producto de la “Ensalada de confit de pato y salsa de erizos de mar” destacaron los “Raviolis de habas verdes con salsa de curry”.

Pasta casera, técnicamente muy trabajada para contener un relleno elaborado a base de habas verdes y una salsa de curry de textura muy fina y sabor moderado que permitió perfectamente distinguir el juego de sabores propuesto por el chef.

Como platos principales, una carne y un pescado. Pese a que el “Pescado de lonja al vapor con arroz negro y allioli” resultó bueno, las “Carrilleras de ternera a baja temperatura con salsa de ciruelas” fueron un regalo para el paladar y los sentidos. Dieciséis horas de cocción tienen la culpa de una textura que va más allá de la suavidad y, lo mejor, el sabor que permite este tipo de cocción que incluso hizo prescindible la confitura de ciruelas, hecha por ellos mismos. Unas verduras aldente fueron el perfecto acompañamiento a un plato sobresaliente que dejó el listón muy alto para los postres que respondieron a la perfección a las expectativas que me fui creando a medida que iba avanzando la cena.

Si el helado de ensaimada y crema quemada me pareció bueno y adecuado al menú y al entorno, la selección de quesos fue la guinda del pastel. Si bien es difícil conseguir que un idiazábal me sorprenda, después de que probara hace meses un Aizpea medalla de oro del que ya he hablado en alguna crónica de mi blog personal, no lo es tanto conseguirlo con un queso de oveja curado cuya elaboración permite más juego de sabores. Así, la corteza de romero le confiere una curación y un sabor increíble que solo fue superado por un mahonés curado que hubiese hecho saltar las lágrimas al mismísimo Boccaccio cuando hallá por el siglo XIV describió por primera vez las bondades del queso italiano por excelencia que recibe su nombre de la zona de que procede, el Reggio.

Nada que envidiar este mahonés extra curado a ningún otro queso similar ni el fantástico mojito con gelatinas, propuesta propia de la cocktelería que desarrolla Jaume Puigserver. Eso sí, yo tengo mucho que envidiar a los huéspedes de este Museo que cada día que residen en él tienen la oportunidad de recrearse en un espacio singular, rodeados de naturaleza, arte y gastronomía. No será la última vez que me deje caer por este Art Resort. Eso sí, tendrá que ser en miércoles o sábado por la tarde, únicos días en que ofrecen el pack de visita más cena, con la posibilidad de hacerlo cualquier día de la semana con grupos superiores a seis personas.

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