Category: Editor's choice

10 Years L.U.C. & CronotempVs

When time counts

Who could have predicted over 12 years ago, when this adventure started, that the independents (that back then nobody wanted) would be so much in demand today? Looking back, the change in attitude with respect to these relatively unknown brands was hardly perceived. What seemed to impossible is the acceptance of those independents by novel watch amateurs and collectors. Today, after many years, independents are finally been given the recognition they deserve. This L.U.C. Perpetual Twin is the culmination of 10 years between the house of L.U.C. Chopard & CronotempVs. A voyage taken over a decade ago that has yielded many great moments.

I don’t think it to be a secret to say that back in the start nobody was willing to bet on a watch collectors club founded in Spain. Few brands took a chance. Chopard with their L.U.C. flag where one of a few to see a mutual benefit in a collaboration. Needles to say that this symbiotic relationship was an unprecedented success. The club needed legitimacy amongst the brands and the brand recognition amongst collectors. A perfect match.

The CronotempVs 1 by L.U. Chopard

The first proposal was a L.U.C Tech Twist with an aggressive contrast in colours relatively unseen in this kind of “classic” watches. With a size of 40.5 mm (rather small for the times) this variant of the Tech Twist did not leave anybody indifferent. In retrospect, many that bought the watch initially had considerable doubts regarding the piece. Yeas later the Ct1 has become one of the most sought after editions amongst the members of the club.

The CronotempVs 5 by L.U. Chopard

The decision on what would be the watch we would celebrate our 10th Anniversary and 10th Club Watch with, was evident from the start. Only an L.U.C. could be an option. Much has evolved inside the club was founded. The internationalisation and the trust the members have in the club make the club stronger than ever. What was unthinkable over decade ago, has become a reality with a superlative complication such as the L.U.C. Perpetual Twin in our collection.

This is not an article about the technical details of the CT5, suffice it to say that the “perpetual calendar” complication is highly regarded by watch collectors and amateurs around the world.

Despite then delay of one year, due to the worldwide COVID pandemic, the project was an absolute success.

The importance of human relations · 10 years L.U.C. & CronotempVs

Even if Chopard can be considered more than a standard “independent” due to its production capacity, media strength and comercial size, L.U.C. in contrast, has always operated as a classic independent. A Limited production and stern defence of their watchmaking philosophy have made a statement that most collectors understand when presented to the brand. With the passage of time one comes to realise all the things achieved. Mutual trust gained over many years from a consolidated relationship are paramount to achieve a project such as this.

thank you Chopard · numquam obliviscaris

 

 

 

Watchonista: Volume 01

Watchonista Introduces The Watch Magazine You Can’t Buy · Watchonista: Volume 01

Watchonista is proud to announce the upcoming launch of Watchonista: Volume 01 on Wednesday, August 25, 2021. It represents the online magazine’s first official foray into the world of print.

This exclusive biannual magazine won’t be sold in bookstores or anywhere else, for that matter, including on Watchonista.com because Watchonista Magazine Volume 01 is NOT FOR SALE. Following the official launch party at COUTURE on August 25, the only way you can obtain a copy of Watchonista: Volume 01 will be via the “Find The Magazine” button on Watchonista’s homepage to locate the nearest retailer or brand boutique with the magazine. Volume 01 will also be selectively distributed to friends of Watchonista around the globe.

The inaugural issue of Watchonista’s print magazine will run 120 pages long and cover a wide range of topics, including watches, collector experiences, interviews, gift guides, and special event coverage, to name a few. Moreover, with Watchonista: Volume 01, ninety-nine percent of the images and one hundred percent of the text included in the issue were produced by Watchonista.

“Thanks to the hard work of the Team and the massive growth of our company, I’m thrilled to bring Watchonista’s magazine to market. This exclusive concept will bring the best of our content to life via a best-in-class magazine. Plus, the introduction of The Lounge by Watchonista will allow us to present other passions that we, as Watchonistas, care deeply about. Happy Reading!”
– Marco Gabella, Chairman, Watchonista

Introducing The Lounge by Watchonista

Amid the pages of Watchonista Magazine’s first issue is The Lounge by Watchonista.

Located at the very heart of Watchonista: Volume 01, this special section of the magazine is presented on glossy paper and covers horologically adjacent passions that Team Watchonista enjoys. Including cigars, spirits, books, and more!

“With Watchonista’s Volume 01, I’m thrilled that WEMPE’s customers, clients, and visitors can be presented with this immersive and engaging magazine.”
– Rudy Albers, President, WEMPE US

A Long & Winding Road

Founded in Switzerland in 2009, Watchonista has always had the core mission of producing the best content and stories that watch enthusiasts and collectors want to read. For over a decade, Watchonista’s readers and followers have embraced their content, be it through Watchonista.com or social media channels. And in recent years, the breadth, depth, and quality of content have improved drastically without having to sell a single watch on their website.

Since day one, their motto has been simple: “We are not a selling platform.” And that motto continues to this day with the introduction of Watchonista: Volume 01 – “The Watch Magazine You Can’t Buy.”

How to Find the Magazine

Starting Wednesday, August 25, visitors to watchonista.com can click on “Find The Magazine” to locate their nearest participating brand or retailer boutique. At launch, Watchonista: Volume 01 will be available at all of Omega’s US boutiques, WEMPE Fifth Avenue, Watches of Switzerland, MAYORS, Topper Jewelers, and more!

Additional points of distribution will be added in the coming weeks following the launch.

For more information on Watchonista: Volume 01, please direct your inquiries to: magazine@watchonista.com.

For more on Watchonista, please visit their website, like them on Facebook, and follow them on Twitter and Instagram.

IWC Aquatimer 2000

This is how CronotempVs and the Aquatimer 2000 came into my life

I had been travelling rather extensively the past few years and it was on one of my trips to Europe in 2016 that I decided to step into IWC in Madrid.  It was a last minute decision made on the spur of the moment as I had some spare time from my work commitments. This chance visit allowed IWC Madrid to introduce me to the 2016 IWC Aquatimer Automatic 2000, one of the 35 limited pieces created by IWC and CronotempVs. 

When I set my eyes upon the Aquatimer 2000, it was the veritable love at first sight moment as the eye-catching colour combination of the 15 minutes dive markers and the hour markers in the familiar and imposing Aquatimer 2000 case immediately set my heart fluttering.

The unusual colour combination of the warm sand brown of the hour markers and light lime green of the 15 minutes markers brought to mind the striking colours of cocktails served by the pool or beach.  The rich details of the vertical stripes on the dial with the hour markers seemingly floating on top of the dial became visible only when the light caught the dial in certain angles while appearing starkly glossy flat in others. Moving round the circumference of the dial was the red arrowhead seconds indicator which provided a nice contrast on the black, sand brown and light lime green colour combination. 

The case shape was the familiar yet strikingly different Aquatimer 2000 shape that we know and come to love.  The bezel was aggressively shaped and the sharp angular lugs allowed the watch to comfortably sit on the wrist. The weight of the watch was a nice heft on the wrist which was not top-heavy. The double AR and domed crystal really helped with providing good visibility of the dial in all angles in spite of the thick crystal (necessary for the 2000 metres water resistance).

Calibre 80110

This Aquatimer 2000 is fitted with IWC Cal 80110 mechanical movement with Pellaton automatic winding system which endowed it with an ingenious form of shock resistance as compared with the “ordinary” automatic winding system where the rotor as the most freely moving part is subjected to great stress and strain.  The Pellaton automatic winding system system has been improved upon by IWC since it was developed more than 60 years ago by IWC’s then technical director, Mr Albert Pellaton.

The call of the Aquatimer 2000 was too strong for me to resist and I purchased the watch unthinkingly. I was in love, I wanted it and I needed it.

The Aquatimer 2000 was seldom off my wrist for the remainder of my trip and I took delight in discovering the small yet insightful details that IWC and Aquatimer 2000 put into the watch that emerged whenever I examined the watch.  For example, the colour of the 4 o’clock hour marker was light lime green and not the sand brown of the other hour markers and the screw down crown and crown guards are in black rubber providing a nice and modern contrast with the titanium of the case.  In the dark, the luminosity of the hands and markers comes alive and makes the dial seem larger than it is.  There is a personalised engraving with the serial number on the case back and the final touch was the bottle of  green wasabi Gin by SKULLY embossed in silver.

I have worn the watch extensively since then as it is a versatile watch being at home lounging by the beach or desk diving in the city.  It has accompanied me on many overseas trips including Bali, Promenade des Anglais, Busan, Majorca, and New Zealand.  Aesthetically, IWC has really built a watch that is rugged and yet elegant.  

The Aquatimer has grown with me over the years.  My love for this watch has not waned over time, but it has deepened and matured with time and will continue to be a part of my life for years to come.

watchstylo…

Chopard L.U.C XP Skeletec

An ultra-thin case and openworked dial expressing the refinement of Chopard Manufacture’s watchmaking expertise

 

 

Since its launch in 2012, the L.U.C XP Skeletec timepiece has been admired for its perfect blend of technical precision and artisanal finishing. Its 7.2 millimetres of perfection make it one the thinnest self-winding skeleton watches on the market. It has now been reinvented to mark the 25th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture: a new design and a more open dial highlight the L.U.C 96.17-S movement, housed in an ethical 18-carat white gold case. Issued in a 50-piece limited edition, produced in the Maison’s workshops using an entirely hand-crafted skeletonisation process, the L.U.C XP Skeletec timepiece is one of the noblest expressions of the art of watchmaking according to Chopard. 

Transparent elegance

The elegant design of the L.U.C XP Skeletec centres around the delicate interplay between the skeletonised movement and the dial ring that surrounds it. The designers of Chopard Manufacture have enlarged the central opening to further highlight the beauty of the skeletonization work and the technical complexity of the calibre. A surrounding dial takes on a more dynamic and contemporary aesthetic with the addition of a white minute track against a slate grey, satin-brushed surface. Pointed, polished hour-markers bring added nuance, partially overlapping with the skeletonised movement underneath. 

An ultra-thin movement to admire

At just 3.3-millimeters thick, the L.U.C 96.17-S movement is a wonder of technical refinement. For most automatic watches, a winding rotor sitting on top of the movement adds inevitable height.  With calibre L.U.C 96.17-S, however, Chopard’s engineers have devised a gold micro-rotor to sit flush with the movement bridges and ensure thinness, while Chopard Twin Technology delivers a lengthy 65-hour power reserve via two coaxial barrels. The extreme overall slenderness of this creation is no impediment to the full functionality of a high-performance watch housing a movement that has amply proved its reliability since its launch.

The skeletonization work, featuring plates and bridges artfully hollowed out to reveal the beauty of the inner workings, has been meticulously carried out by hand at Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. In particular, a multitude of perfectly finished internal angles are a hallmark of exceptional work that can only be accomplished by the craftsman’s hand. 

As a final flourish, a Côtes de Genève finish ripples across the skeletonised mainplate on the dial side, while the rhodium-plated black bridges make a striking contrast with the gilded gear wheels and micro-rotor. 

Pioneering ethical gold

Above and beyond technical expertise, Chopard is proud to have been a pioneer in the watchmaking-jewellery sector through a responsible approach to its entire production chain, expressed since 2018 through its commitment to using 100% ethical gold in its watch and jewellery creations. 

El modelo L.U.C XP Skeletec no es una excepción. Su caja de 40 mm de oro ético blanco de 18 quilates de asas largas y delicadas garantiza un ajuste perfecto sobre la muñeca, mientras que su correa de cuero de becerro dotado de un acabado de nobuk aterciopelado con pespuntes grises tono sobre tono le confiere una elegante sobriedad monocromática.

Chopard L.U.C  XP Skeletec

Limited to 50 units

Price 25.400 Euros

More info…

 

L.U. Chopard Perpetual Twin CronotempVs

The highest level of sophistication of a perpetual calendar dedicated to a private club passionate about horology

L.U. Chopard Perpetual Twin CronotempVs, a perpetual calendar with its union of the practical and the poetic, is the ultimate expression of elegance and sophistication for the modern gentleman. This year Chopard is presenting its celebrated perpetual calendar, in collaboration with CronotempVs that offers the gentleman connoisseurs a new expression of artful style and horological finesse. With this version of the L.U.C Perpetual Twin, Manufacture Chopard perpetuates the historic bond between the brand and the private watch collectors club CronotempVs. A story that began 10 years ago with the first club watch, the L.U.C Tech-Twist. With an unseen to date granulated gold dial and blackened indices, this perpetual calendar seals a relationship that will last for many decades to come.

Designed for life

Launched in 2016 on the 20th anniversary of Chopard Manufacture, the L.U. Chopard Perpetual Twin CronotempVs is recognised for its combination of purist-pleasing Haute Horlogerie and the practicality of an automatic steel wristwatch designed to be worn every day. Indeed, it remains the only chronometer-certified perpetual calendar in stainless steel currently on the market, a reflection of Chopard’s absolute commitment to superior quality in every watch it makes.

Chopard now presents this modern timepiece once more in robust stainless steel, with a newly-refined dial in a rich and urbane shade of blue. Additionally, the L.U.C Perpetual Twin is presented for the first time in 18-carat rose gold, with a subtle grey dial.

Balance and poise

The magnificent gold-granulated dial sets the scene for a perfect legibility in all conditions. The visibility on month and date has been improved with an increased contrast. A big date forms the focal point of the layout, with sub-dials for the perpetual calendar day, month and leap year indications, and small seconds at 6 o’clock. Minimalist applied hour markers bring quiet poise to this discreet and perfectly balanced design. As a hidden detail, even if this is the tenth watch so far, the “V” has been rhodinated in silver since this is a series 5 (calendar complication) of the collection.

Technical mastery: a perpetual calendar chronometer

Visible beneath a sapphire crystal caseback, the movement powering the L.U.C Perpetual Twin, mechanical automatic calibre L.U.C 96.22-L, is a work of true technical and artisanal mastery. Hand-made by Chopard’s skilled watchmakers, it exhibits the finest traditions of hand-finishing, and has been certified as a chronometer by the experts of Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) – a rare distinction for perpetual calendar watches, and one that guarantees utmost precision and reliability.

Chopard’s watchmakers also ensured that elegance is built into the watch from the calibre outwards, thanks to a 22-carat gold micro-rotor that sits within the plane of the movement, keeping the entire mechanism to just 6 mm in depth. Chopard Twin Technology, meanwhile, employs dual barrels to deliver an extended power reserve of 65 hours, meaning that the watch will continue running when left untouched for over two-and-a-half days.

25 years of excellence, innovation and tradition

In 2021, Chopard is proud to mark the 25th anniversary of the creation of Chopard Manufacture in Fleurier. In 1996, when Swiss watchmaking was still emerging from the struggles of the quartz crisis, Chopard Co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele committed to defending and restoring the ancestral crafts and techniques passed down through generations of watchmakers. The village of Fleurier, where watchmaking heritage goes back over 200 years, Chopard Manufacture would become a force for the finest techniques in traditional watchmaking, hand finishing and artistic crafts.

In parallel, it has been able to innovate across the full range of modern watch production operations, from case and dial-making to movement development, advanced metallurgy and component manufacture. In particular, it has put chronometry – the ultimate measure of horological excellence – at the heart of all its activities.

The gentleman’s way

The L.U.C Perpetual Twin is in every way the watch of the modern gentleman – a quietly sophisticated statement of culture and elegance, for the man who naturally advocates for art, aesthetics, handcraft and style. And as such, it is a timepiece conveying the essence of Chopard watchmaking: a refined celebration of the watchmaker’s art, that is both distinctive and utterly discreet.

 

 

L.U. Chopard Perpetual Twin “CronotempVs”

Case:

Stainless steel
Total diameter                                                                        43 mm
Thickness                                                                            11.47 mm
Water resistance                                                                    30 metres
Stainless steel crown with L.U.C logo                            6.50 mm
Polished bezel and case-back
Glareproofed sapphire crystal
Exhibition back engaved with club watch engaving

Movement:

Mechanical self-winding                                             L.U.C 96.22-L
Total diameter                                                                    33.00 mm
Thickness                                                                               6.00 mm
Number of jewels                                                                    29 jewels
Frequency                                                                        28,800 vph (4 Hz)
Power reserve:                                                                         65 hours
Chronometer-certified (COSC)

Dial and hands:

Perpetual calendar dials (large-aperture date, day of the week, month and leap years)
Black Dauphine-type hour, minute, day, month and small seconds hands
Rhodiumed red-tipped triangular leap-year hand
Black Roman numerals

Functions and displays:

Central display of the hours and minutes
Small seconds display at 6 o’clock
Large date display at 12 o’clock
Day of the week and month displays at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively
Offset leap-year display between 2 and 3 o’clock.

Strap and buckle:

Hand-sewn black alligator leather with alligator leather lining
Steel pin buckle

Ref. 168561-30043  

 More info…

Bronze Patina

One of the first questions you will come across when you buy your first bronze watch. Do I wait for the bronze patina to evolve with the passing of time or do I control and provoke it?

Angelo del Mare – Royal Officer “CC Edition”

For the first option, the only ingredient required is patience. For the second, just a simple tutorial will accelerate and make sure you are closer to achieving the desired effect before its due time. Although many already have their very personal way, I prefer a more subtle and controllable approach to attain my bronze patina. Before you begin you need to know that no bronze is the same and manufacturers use different alloy compositions making them different in color and even the time and way they oxidate.

After many questions, especially since the delivery of the Royal Officer CC by Angelo del Mare, here goes a brief tutorial for those that have not gone this rabit hole just yet. Well, let’s get started;

PREPARATION

If you choose to take control of your bronze patina’s evolution you need to do this before even the first wear so it is as clean as possible. Even if not visible, finger prints are particularly difficult to remove once the process starts. It is preferable to clean the watch with a clear cleaning solution and a cotton piece of cloth without thinning to polish it in excess. This liquid is clear with a moderate viscosity and is found under different brands but it base component is ANHYDROUS HYDROCHLORIC ACID. Once the surface cleaned rinse with water and dry with a clean cloth.

ATTENTION: never use a cream or polishing compound like those used for cleaning silver or other metals.

Top begin with the process the only thing you really need is vinegar. Yes, the same vinegar you use for your salads. No need to shop for ammonia unless you are looking for EXTREME results or use your urine (yeah, I know…).I have even seen some use a hardboiled egg in a plastic bag. Don’t waist your time, eat the egg… If you wish to have a more extreme reaction them by all means, go get some ammonia. Previously wet the watch with saltwater will accelerate too. This will probably get you that blue-green patina fast. Unfortunately like that this patina will not last and most likely be all over you real fast. A “real” blue-green patina that does not fade takes time to develop and there is no way around that.

STEP 1

Remove the strap from the watch case and buckle. Nothing would happen to the strap but if surfaces touch the watch case will not be subjected to the process and stains will be visible.

STEP 2

Place the bronze parts like the watch case and buckle in a small glass container. For the result to be homogeneous it is imperative that the bronze components are treated together at the same time.

STEP 3

Use a larger container to be able to place the smaller one (open) inside that can be hermetically closed. Add some common vinegar to the large container. Preferably I recommend no more than less than a finger in height, to slow the oxidation speed and make it more controlable. It is important that the vinegar not come in contact with the watch case at any time. What causes the oxidation are the vinegar “fumes” and not the vinagre itself. Submerging the watch in vinegar will not only have the adverse effect but will also likely damage your watch’s gaskets.

STEP 4

Now close the large container and set a 10 minute countdown to be able to check and control the outcome of the process. Checking every 10 minutes will allow you to fine tune the desired level of patina.

THE END

Once your desired level is reached just clean the bronze with a damp cloth and the oxidation process will be halted. Put the strap back on and you are done.

In this case I chose a combination of controlled self-made light patina and the passing of time. New and shiny bronze does not appeal much to me but still want the experience of seeing it age.

We are able to control our bronze patina more that we might think. Different liquids like salt water or even sweat will yield different colours and results. Can it be reset? Yes, it can. Some use a lemon while others go for vinegar or synthetic cleaning compounds. No mater the outcome just know that you are more in charge than you know.

by @Scaramanga__

 

17.09 MING x Massena LAB

Massena LAB, the timepiece creation studio founded by watch industry veteran William Massena, is proud to announce the release of its latest collaboration project, the 17.09 MING x Massena LAB Limited Edition

Designed as a daily wearer with easy functionality and a unique design language, this limited edition is bound to create some buzz as it is MING’s first collaboration with another brand. The 17.09 MING x Massena LAB.

The first thing viewers of the watch will notice is the intricate honeycomb dial, with its hexagonal pattern adding a striking visual texture to the overall appearance of the watch. Done in two colorways — subtle honey or contrasting black, the 17.09 MING x Massena LAB Limited Edition dial is a modern interpretation of Rolex honeycomb dials from the mid-century. The circular brushed outer portion of the dial nicely complements the angles and lines of its busy honeycomb center and provides balance to the overall aesthetic.

Next are the watch’s numerals, which appear to be floating above the dial, giving it a three-dimensional effect. This is done by laser etching the underside of the crystal, thus raising them off the dial and into space. They are filled with Super-LumiNova for superior visibility in low light situations and the new configuration allows for the numerals to glow with a new intensity. At the three and nine o’clock positions, the MING and Massena LAB logos have been tastefully placed, seamlessly integrating into the overall design language of the watch.

The polished and brushed 316L stainless steel case recalls the “padellone” (little frying pan in Italian) cases that were found on Rolex 8171 while still maintaining the trademark flared lugs of the 17.09. And with its 38mm case, the MING x Massena LAB Limited Edition sits comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes. Flipping the case over, the same honeycomb pattern found on the dial is mimicked on the back.

Just like the original 17.09, the MING x Massena LAB Limited Edition features the modified version of the Sellita SW330-2, the 330.M1, developed by Manufacturer Schwarz-Etienne. This movement has an independent hour-hand adjustment mechanism, making it much easier to set the time. This feature is exclusive to the MING 17.09.

Limited to 200 numbered examples (50 in honey, 150 in black) the 17.09 MING x Massena LAB Limited Edition will be available for purchase on Thursday, May 20th at 10:30am EST (GMT -5) at massenalab.com. Priced at $2,795 USD (honey dial) and $2,595 USD (black dial) each watch includes a matched strap by Jean Rousseau Paris, which offers the wearer a distinctive style.

Watches will be delivered in late July, and shipped from New York City.

17.09 MING x Massena LAB

Model: 17.09 MING x Massena LAB Limited Edition

Functions: Hours, minutes; independently adjustable hour marker

Material: Stainless steel

Dimensions: 38mm; 10mm thickness, 44mm lug to lug

Dial: Honeycomb pattern dial

Double sided anti-reflective coating

Caseback: Closed steel back with special honeycomb engraving.

Lume: Super-LumiNova X1

Caliber: 330.M1 – based on the Sellita SW330-2, by Manufacturer Schwarz-Etienne

Power Reserve: 42 hours

Water Resistance: 100 meters

Strap: smooth calf in honey with brown alcantara lining, brown alcantara with brown rubber

lining and orange contrasting stitching; quick release with curved fitting

Lug Width: 20mm

 Priced at $2,795 USD (honey dial) and $2,595 USD (black dial)

Info…

Silver Spur by LAINE

CronotempVs Collectors presents the “Silver Spur” by Laine, a unique approach manufactured entirely in the brand’s atelier

Silver Spur by LAINE

Although not visible at first glance the “Silver Spur” by LAINE is unique in more ways than one. Commissioned exclusively for CronotempVs Collectors the Silver Spur is a limited production timepiece that will be available to order once a year.

Torsti Laine is a Finish watchmaker based in Le Locle where he founded Laine Watches. Graduated from the prestigious Finnish School of Watchmaking (Kelloseppäkoulu). From there, in 2014 he is awarded the « F.A. Lange Watchmaking Excellence Award » by the brand A.Lange & Söhne. To win this prestigious award. Torsti Laine developed an innovative system that would allow the visual setting of the moonphase relative to any place on earth with the means of only one pusher. In the following years, Laine collaborates with A.Lange & Söhne  and Kari Voutilainen in Switzerland before creating his own brand, Laine.

All of Laine’s creations are handmade and decorated at his atelier in Le Locle.

The first watch to see the light from this workshop is the Classic Chronograph. This timepiece boasts a half century old Valjoux movement that was completely restored, modified and hand finished. Not forgetting that those vintage Valjoux movements where in use by the most prestigious watch brands of that era and those being valued as one of the best manual wind mechanical chronographs of all time. To the original movement, Laine adds 38 components, five new bridges and a new clutch system that he made by hand.

The passage of time

The passage of time can not only be told in an empirical way but so can the evolution of patina on materials. At the request of several collectors the German silver dial will not be treated with varnish to allow that the passage of time be present on the dial as well. Over time the German silver dial will develop its own personal character. Nevertheless, this patina can be reset at any time while in service at the owner’s behest. The Silver Spur’s dial is sculpted out of a piece of German silver. Its surface is polished with a sandblasting process and then finished with a handmade circular brushing, offering a unique visual effect.

To set the Silver Spur further apart, applied indices in white gold have been added to the dial. The combination between the sandblasted silver dial and applied white gold indices give the Silver Spur a unique character.

Handmade finishings

Maybe one of the most noteworthy points in the movement’s finishings are the two bridges in a mirror or “black-polish” finish. This sought after finish is mostly present in very high-end movements, traditionally on the hammers of minute repeater watches. The process to finish a bridge this way requires; notable skill, patience, a very clean working environment and preferably specific humidity conditions. The black-polish finish was named this way because the surface polished to perfection turns deep black depending on the angle of light/sight.

To set the Silver Spur apart even further, the three-quarter plate is given a two tone blue and silver color and polished bevels finished by hand.

Uncompromised elegance

Regardless of the traditional aspect of the Silver Spur there is no reason why the visibility under all conditions should be considered as in any contemporary watch design. To make this Laine visible at night the Super LumiNova has been discreetly integrated to the dial and hands so as to not interfere in the design’s purity. The result of this integration makes the visibility of the luminous material during the day practically invisible.

New case size

The Silver Spur’s stainless steel case will be available in its traditional 40,5 mm size but also in a new 42,5 mm case, a first to the brand. This case is equipped with front and back sapphire crystals with a clear anti-reflective treatments on both sides for the front and only on the inside for the rear.

Straps and travel case by Delugs

Apart from the standard strap there are three more variations by Delugs that can be ordered. The the leather travel case that comes with the Silver Spur will also be made by Delugs.

Silver Spur by “40” LAINE

Case in stainless steel 40,5 mm

Movement Manual wind, calibre LA18.1

Functions hours, minutes, seconds

Dial German silver and applied white gold indices

Waterproof to 30m

Strap and travel case in leather by “Delugs”

Limited Production

PVP 9.600 €  (Excl. VAT)

Silver Spur by “42” LAINE

Case in stainless steel 42,5 mm

Movement manual wind, calibre LA18.1

Functions hours, minutes, seconds

Dial German silver and applied white gold indices

Waterproof to 30m

Strap and travel case in leather by “Delugs”

Limited Production

PVP  9.600 € (Excl. VAT)

Pre-ORDER HERE…

CronotempVs by Habring2 COSZM

The CronotempVs by Habring2 COSZM is the 2nd collaboration between the Club and Maria and Richard Habring following the highly successful and warm reception to the CronotempVs 6 Deadbeat Seconds complication.  For this limited edition Club watch, the focus is on something that has technical and historical significance to the only true independent watchmakers from Austria.

The COS (Crown Operating System) is the first chronograph in the world that works without the standard pushers, providing a simple yet innovative solution to problems associated with pushers.  The chronograph is operated by turning the crown, a more natural thing to do as far as the Habrings are concerned. Having no standard pushers also eliminate the need to drill more holes in the case, significantly reducing the risk of leakage as each hole require seals for water tightness.

Reliability and keeping things as simple as possible are important values to Habring2, subscribing to the Japanese credo that each part saved (reduced) is a part which can’t break.

The ZM (“Zentraler Minutenzähler” or central minute counter in English) complication is a 60 minute counter with the minutes hand centrally mounted, providing enhanced functionality versus more common 30 minute counters on the subdial.  Interestingly, a majority of collectors choose the 30 minute counter despite the technical advantage of the 60 minute counter.

When the crown is not activated, the minute hand is directly underneath the seconds hand at 12 o’clock, appearing to to be a regular time only watch. The tachymeter and telemeter functions prove otherwise.

TACHYMETER function:

Activating the crown enables one to measure not only the speed between points or to extrapolate the frequency of an event in one hour.  In the case of the Habring2 COSZM  the tachymetric scale has been moved to the central minute hand in order to measure an average walking pace of an individual and not the speed of a fast moving vehicle.

TELEMETER function:

The telemeter function measures distance by calculating the time elapsed between one event and the sound reaching the user. Telemeters are commonly used to calculate the distance of a storm or explosion. In case of a storm the distance is calculated by activating the chronograph function when you see the lightning and stopping the chronograph function when you hear the thunder. The time elapsed during these two events will tell you the distance of the lightning strike on the outer telemeter scale.

The formula used to calculate the speed of sound takes into account temperature, relative air humidity and elevation. In this Habring2 COSZM CronotempVs  opted for conditions similar to hiking when the knowledge of the distance of a storm is more critical.

The COS and ZM are among the oldest inventions of Maria and Richard Habring, very untypical of the way things are generally done today. They maintain these as a reminder to show that there’s so much space besides the watch industry’s mainstream.

This special piece is enhanced by other technical features, like being waterproof up to 100 meters, shockproof (DIN and NIHS) and their first watch to have the HMS (Habring Magnetic Shield).

Habring2…

Kross Studio Death Star

Kross Studio releases the ultimate collector set inspired by the Death Star

Each extremely limited-edition set is composed of a Death StarTM – inspired Tourbillon watch and an authentic kyber crystal movie prop from Rogue One: A Star Wars Story, delivered in an outstanding Imperial kyber crystal container.

Kross Studio has achieved a stunning and significant milestone within just months of the company’s official launch, collaborating with Lucasfilm on this brand-new Star WarsTM- inspired set. The release pays tribute to the iconic Star Wars space saga, creating a 10-piece series of Death Star-inspired Ultimate Collector Sets, for those who savor Star Wars history as much as high-end design objects. Crafted to the finest standards of Swiss design and engineering, this set is the perfect companion for collectors.

Own a piece of Cinematic History

Kross Studio brings the emblematic power of the Death Star to life as the imposing design details of the mobile space station and planet- destroying superweapon is featured as the cornerstone of this new collection.

Each collectible set contains an official screen- used kyber crystal – the power source of the Death Star’s superlaser – as featured in Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. This marks the first time that authentic kyber crystal props will be released to the public as part of Kross Studio ultimate collector set and are an opportunity for die-hard fans to own a piece of the fascinating Star Wars galaxy.

An eminent design object with an immersive visual experience

The powerful and precious nature of the crystals required them to be stored in armored crates for transport. Faithful to the film storytelling, Kross Studio conceived an official reproduction of those containers, made of wood and aluminum. More than 700 parts were necessary to produce each container, scaled to half the original film dimensions of 3.94 feet long (1.20 meters). Fully hand-assembled and hand-painted, the containers embody the iconic saga story down to the smallest detail.

Every aspect of these substantial art objects, like fine sculptures, have been thoroughly conceptualized and executed with immersive details that take the viewer into the Star Wars universe, from the electronic control panel to the backlit manifest panel inscribed in the Aurebesh language of the Galactic Empire.

Inside, the container is divided into nine storage units. Three interior sections secure three removable capsules, containing: the Death Star Tourbillon watch, three accompanying timepiece straps sets, and the genuine movie prop kyber crystal, as featured in the film Rogue One: A Star Wars Story. The other 6 free storage spaces within the crate offer ample storage space for collectors to house their personal Star Wars collectibles and ephemera, secured within a removable top cover.

Inspired by the Death Star legacy

Kross Studio took up the challenge of the central tourbillon – a mechanical complication honoring the prominent Death Star. Featured in a 45 mm black DLC coated grade 5 titanium case, the captivating Death Star-inspired Tourbillon cage makes one revolution per minute. On the surface of the Death Star-inspired Tourbillon, a green superlaser cannon stands reminiscent of the space station’s kyber crystal enabled power.

The Death Star-inspired Tourbillon watch itself tells us a great story of passion, craftsmanship and advanced technology. Notable technical innovations are highlighted such as the house-developed manual-winding mechanical movement that delivers a robust 5-day power reserve. The hands have been affixed to a peripheral display that orbits 360 degrees around the tourbillon. A traditional crown system has been replaced by an ingenious, inset push-button system. Kross Studio developed a D-ring shaped crown on the case back for winding the timepiece, stowed out of sight to help maintain the timepiece’s sleek, space-age styling. These clean lines are also preserved by cleverly hiding quick-release buttons on the underside of the case. This practical feature will doubtless be welcomed by collectors, allowing a quick change of the straps from the included calfskin leather strap to either of the two other included rubber straps.

The Death Star-inspired Tourbillon watch itself tells us a great story of passion, craftsmanship and advanced technology. Notable technical innovations are highlighted such as the house-developed manual-winding mechanical movement that delivers a robust 5-day power reserve. The hands have been affixed to a peripheral display that orbits 360 degrees around the tourbillon. A traditional crown system has been replaced by an ingenious, inset push-button system. Kross Studio developed a D-ring shaped crown on the case back for winding the timepiece, stowed out of sight to help maintain the timepiece’s sleek, space-age styling. These clean lines are also preserved by cleverly hiding quick-release buttons on the underside of the case. This practical feature will doubtless be welcomed by collectors, allowing a quick change of the straps from the included calfskin leather strap to either of the two other included rubber straps.

Celebrate in our own Galaxy

Endlessly explore this beautiful design piece, where Star Wars iconography is subtly inserted to sublimate the whole, such as the esthetic Galactic Empire emblem and the push-button featuring an engraving in Aurebesh script – one of the most widely used alphabets in the Star Wars galaxy. Moreover, the hour hand takes the shape of an Imperial-Class Star Destroyer, the bane of the rebellion, while the minute hand appears as a Super-Class Star Destroyer, able to carry no less than 38,000 stormtroopers. At last, the fixed hours wheel, filled with white superluminova “blue emission”, is inspired by the lighting halls embedded in the Imperial vessels.

Only 10 of these Death Star-inspired Collector Sets will ever be produced, but their launch is just the first of more exciting Star Wars-inspired products to come from Kross Studio as they look forward to bringing the most breathtaking and immersive experiences to their fans and customers.

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